It’s not every day you get to wake up to the soft chorus of sing-songing swallows and feast on fresh, farm-grown produce.
On the two-hour drive to São Lourenço do Barrocal from Lisbon, the wide, open plains of rural Alentejo begin to unfurl as the cityscape gets smaller, carpeted with wildflower meadows that perfume the air with citrus blossom and honey. You know you’re close when the small town of Evora comes into view beneath the medieval, hilltop village of Monsaraz. The entryway to the hotel appears along a manicured off-road studded with holm oaks that bow and sway in the mid-afternoon breeze.
Once home to a thriving community of farmers, Barrocal was left to ruin during the Carnation Revolution in the 1970s. It was José António Uva, an eighth-generation family member, who brought his ancestral farming village back to life – leading to a meticulous, 14-year restoration by the Pritzker Prize-winning architect Eduardo Souto de Moura.
©Ash James
Fast-forward some 200 years, the modern-day Barrocal, which opened as a hotel in 2016, remains much the same in structure and spirit – with a few light-touch modern comforts peppered in. Guests are invited to linger over long lunches and become fully immersed in the estate’s history through its 22 rooms and two suites; 16 whitewashed cottages; two farm-to-table restaurants; a Susanne Kaufmann spa with four treatment rooms, and a roster of grounding, back-to-nature experiences.
The Vibe
Archaeological remains and old farming contraptions are scattered all over the estate. These old wells and dams are treated as relics from the past, preserved for the purpose of being revived one day. A stone-carved communal oven has remained untouched and intact, mainly used for atmospheric wine tasting sessions; one day it will be restored to make bread again. Such is the way of life at Barrocal, where you’re reminded of the estate’s heritage in unexpected pockets.
©Jorge Vieira
The same can be said of the design. The restaurant’s cabinet of curiosities, for one, is a treasure trove of personal objects belonging to the owner’s family. Maps, yellowed recipes, elegant silk gloves, preserved butterflies and family portraits were handpicked from the archive by the architect and designer, Joana Astolfi. It’s these joyful details that add to the estate’s enveloping warmth and charm. You just never know what you’ll come across next on a ramble around the grounds.
The Rooms
©Ash James
Spread across the estate, Barrocal’s 40 guestrooms, suites and 16 cottages are bright and airy, complete with natural wood accents that contrast with the whitewashed walls. Locally handcrafted objects are patterned with traditional Portuguese design details, including ceramics and organic textiles from Fábrica Alentejana de Lanifícios, a 100-year-old textile factory in Monsaraz. The hallway is simple and spacious, with heaps of wardrobe space and a nifty row of hooks for hanging your swimmers. Terracotta-tiled bathrooms are expansive, kitted out with twin sinks and products by organic Austrian brand Susanne Kaufmann.
©Ash James
Washed in natural light, the main bedroom area features high ceilings and crisp cotton bed linen. Scan the desk for sweet treats on arrival, including a bar of homemade dark chocolate and lemongrass tea sourced fresh from the garden. An eight-cup cafetiere comes with quirky instructions for serving the best-ratio brew alongside a selection of biscuits and teas. Elsewhere, there’s a curated selection of Monocle coffee table books for perusing at leisure on the terrace or by the pool. A few knitted blankets are folded by the entrance to the terrace to ward off the evening chill.
The Food + Drink
©Ash James
Days revolve around convivial, multi-course meals at Barrocal, inviting guests to linger over dishes prepared with produce from the estate’s garden. Take a seat at Hortelao’s for the atmosphere alone, an al fresco restaurant surrounded by endless rows of sunflowers. This is where you’ll get your fix of farm-grown dishes drizzled with the estate’s hand-pressed olive oil. The faint sizzle of grilled meat can be made out from the open-air kitchen, paired with plates of honey-doused carrots and simple tomato salads.
©Ash James
Hortelao’s botanical backdrop is just one of a few idyllic locations on the estate where mealtimes are served. Warm evening meals in a former bullring nod to the farm’s layered history, draped in the sun’s golden evening light as dusk sets in. Breakfast the next day is a medley of homemade jams, regional cheeses, traditional Portuguese sweet bread (massa sovada) and an assortment of farm-grown fruit plucked from the kitchen garden. Grab a seat outside for a front-row view of the mythical barrocal formations – clusters of rocks once used by ancient tribes.
The Little Extras
Mark Borthwick’s ethereal images of Barrocal, commissioned for LHW’s new book Culture: The Leading Hotels of the World, captures the dreamlike essence and vibe here. The way the light blankets the estate’s verdant grounds, casting shadows in all the right places, lends it a mystical, otherworldly quality.
The To-Do List
In between gentle morning swims and long, leisurely lunches, Barrocal’s vast array of back-to-nature activities invites guests to unearth all 780 hectares of the estate. Begin with an equestrian workshop, where kids and families are invited to groom, brush and feed the hotel’s pure-blood Lusitano horses. Guided horseback rides are available for all levels, including a scenic 30-minute trail for beginners that loops around an ancient menhir and a 2,000-year-old olive tree. Longer rides include a trot along the Roman dam and access to Lake Alqueva nearby.
©Jorge Vieira
Trade your usual morning pick-me-up for an exhilarating hot air balloon ride at sunrise, when the morning light envelopes Alentejo’s photogenic landscapes. Wild boars and herds of leaping calves can be spotted among the tree-clad fields, exposed by the sound of clanking bells. Meanwhile, the hilltop village of Monsaraz forms a squiggly silhouette as the balloon lowers and jolts to a halt.
By night, the region’s Dark Sky Alqueva Reserve offers unhindered star-spotting opportunities. Take part in an informative stargazing workshop for a deep-sky celestial show. Using a professional-grade microscope, an expert guide uses a green laser to point out particular planets and constellations, comparing stars that glow blue and amber with closer inspection.
©Ash James
Wine tours of the estate are just as detailed, inviting guests to go behind the scenes and learn the art of winemaking. A backstage tour reveals the history and craft behind each bottle, using enormous clay pots or qvevri from the 1800s to make rich, velvety reds and crisp white wines. Wool-making workshops are also on the agenda, a therapeutic and immersive activity that covers each step of the yarn-making process. You’ll come away feeling relaxed and accomplished, even if the yarn turns out a bit bobbly.
Future activities range from candle-making to herb foraging from the estate’s organic vegetable garden. The former is part of a long-term project to harvest beeswax over the years, little by little and entirely by hand.
Lead image: Ash James. All image credit: Sao Lourenco do Barrocal
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