Autumn is the perfect time to visit Athens, Greece. Summer crowds have dwindled (but not disappeared) and the temperature has dropped from its summer highs, yet remains pleasant. This is CF’s insider guide to Athens in autumn.
Athens is a city that has long been undergoing a cultural renaissance, shedding off its reputation as the city of antiquities and stepping into a new era as one of Europe’s trendiest places to eat, drink, shop and explore. Greeks have known this for a while, but the rest of the world is waking up to Athens 2.0 and more visitors are choosing to spend a few days in the Greek capital, rather than seeing it as just an overnight pitstop on the way to the Greek islands.
Including the obvious and some IYKYK spots, this is our insider guide to 18 of the top things to do and see in Athens, Greece this autumn.
Hike (Or Take The Funicular) Up Mount Lycabettus
I’m going to admit this straight out, I’ve never hiked up Mount Lycabettus. I have taken the funicular though, and I’d argue that it’s a far more civilised way of doing it. If you want to hike to the top it will take you roughly 40 to 90 minutes, depending on your fitness levels; the funicular takes just three minutes (but factor time in for the queue, too) and runs through a tunnel carved out into the mountain, so all the views are saved for when you reach the top. This is the tallest hill in Athens – so however you get to its summit, you’re rewarded with truly unbeatable views. Walk around the perimeter, landmark spotting as you go – you’ll see the Acropolis of course, but also the Temple of Zeus, the Panathenaic Stadium (home to the first modern Olympic Games), the Hellenic Parliament, the Saronic Gulf and, on a clear day, the nearby Greek islands of Aegina and Salamina. Time it for sunset for the best views – and it’s best finished off with a drink at St. George Lycabettus Hotel’s rooftop bar, Vertigo, which is located half-way up the hill and comes with views to match.
Wander The Ancient Streets Of Pretty Plaka
Probably the prettiest streets in all of Athens, Plaka is also the city’s oldest neighbourhood and lined with Neoclassical buildings, Byzantine churches, plus a whole lot of restaurants, bars and shops. Yes, it’s touristy (not only is it pretty, but you’ll find it located right at the foot of the Acropolis, so no surprise there), but it’s worth it, and honestly, it does pretty well on the no-hassle front compared to most of the touristy areas in its European counterparts. There’s also some really great stores mixed in amidst those selling ‘I Love Athens’ and ‘Sparta’ T-shirts – one of my favourites is the design concept store, Forget Me Not, which stocks tasteful takes on Greek souvenirs, like printed maps of Plaka, Athens and some of the Greek islands, leather footwear by Ancient Greek Sandals, and colourful backgammon sets (a popular game in Greece, and better known as Tavli).
Watch The Changing Of The Guard At Syntagma Square
Taking place on the hour every hour, think of this as akin to London’s Changing of the Guard ceremony – but with a whole load of Greek flair. Performed by the Presidential Guard (known as Evzones), it takes place beside the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a monument dedicated to all Greek soldiers who have been killed at war. This is a real event, not a tourist attraction but – like London’s equivalent – draws a tourist crowd each and every time, and especially on a Sunday at 11am when police close off the nearby streets for an accompanying military parade and band who march through the city centre to lay a new wreath at the tomb. Look out for the Evzone’s shoes – known as the tsarouchi, they feature a large woollen pompom and you’ll see versions of these being sold throughout the city (they make great slippers!). For the best viewing spot on a Sunday, arrive by 10:30 to snag a space, or stay overnight at the adjacent Hotel Grand Bretagne and ask for a room overlooking Syntagma Square.
Shop at Independent Stores
While the well-known high-end and high-street brands have a presence in Athens, it’s in the city’s boutique stores that the magic really lies. Maria Lemos’ Mouki Mou has its flagship store in the centre of Athens, where she curates high-end women’s and menswear from global brands like Lemaire, Le Monde Béryl and fforme alongside Greek labels like Ilena Makri, Leda Athanasopoulou and Ancient Greek Sandals. Find fun and colourful Greek designs a five-minute walk away at Karavan; crafted-to-perfection shirts for all occasions at It’s A Shirt; an expertly curated and sourced selection of global fashion and design pieces at Anthologist; jewellery at Eleni Marneri Gallery; and forward-thinking art and design books and magazines at Hyper Hypo (one of my favourite stores to browse). Vintage is having more than a moment in Athens too, and some of the best places to pick up pre-loved pieces include the floral-focussed boutique Anthophile Vintage (who also sell handmade floral accessories, crafted by owner Nikoletta Streltsova’s mother) and Bohbo in Exarchia; Treasure House in the centre of the city; plus Epoque Room and Beehive in Kypseli. Fun fact: Kypseli translates to ‘beehive’ in English too.
Explore The Street Art
Street art is woven into the very fabric of modern Athens, ranging from the impressive to the confusing. Sprawled across walls throughout the city – including in its centre – you won’t have to look far to see it. You’ll come across it as you sit down for an al fresco coffee, or as you pootle down narrow lanes or take the metro to your next destination (in fact, you’ll often find it covering train carriages too). Some of it varies season to season, quickly replaced by another layer of creative or not-so-creative paint, while some of it endures – like the long-standing Apocalypse Now piece by Ino, that stretches top to bottom of a building’s outdoor wall in Psyrri (find it on the corner of Miaouli and Agias Eleousis Street). In fact, Psyrri is one of the best places to see a lot of Athens’ outdoor art, and Ino is one of the most celebrated artists, with large-scale pieces speaking to social and political themes dotted all over the city. For wall-to-wall street-art coverage head to the Exarchia neighbourhood, where every tiny space has been splashed with colour and messaging. Other well-known pieces to look out for as you wander include Pavlos Tsakonas’ Hands in Omonia, and a collaboration piece by various artists titled All Dogs Go To Heaven (Loukanikos) in Psyrri. Loukanikos is the name of a dog – the “Greek protest dog” who ran with protesters against austerity measures during 2011. He was later recognised as – and photographed for – one of Time magazine’s personalities of the year.
Dine At Some Of The Best Restaurants
Hole-in-the-wall, street-food specials, restaurants with an Acropolis view, Michelin-star-awarded chefs – no matter your food preference on any given day you’ll find it in Athens. On the high-end dining side, one of my favourites is the very-creative Makris Athens by Domes, where a playful set menu is brought to your table, dish by dish. With head chef Petros Dimas at the helm, this restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2024, just 15 months after it opened (it also has an Acropolis view from its top-floor terrace). Female-run Merceri is another top choice for fine dining in a relaxed setting and, hidden in the foothills of Mount Lycabettus, celebrity-chef Argiro Barbarigou’s seafood restaurant Papadakis is a favourite with well-heeled locals. There’s a flourishing Asian-cuisine scene in the roads just south of Syntagma Square: Tanpopo and Nolan are two of the best. Outside of the city centre, Exarchia’s Pharaoh has been a hot-spot with the trendy crowd since the day it opened in 2022, serving elevated Greek dishes made for sharing; Akra in Pangrati brings back spontaneity with a Greek-focussed menu that changes daily; and on the south coast, Sebastian at Ace Hotel Athens offers fresh bistro-style dishes. If you’re just after a quick bite, find one of the best gyros in Athens at Achilleas in the somewhat-run-down-but up-and-coming Neos Kosmos neighbourhood.
And Drink At A Wine Bar
There’s been an uptake in wine-drinking fans in Athens over recent years, and with it comes a whole host of new late-night hangouts dedicated to the fermented grape – although some reject the grape entirely, focussing instead on other fruity fermentation. Line Athens – currently ranked no.6 in The World’s Best Bars list – is one of them, replacing wine with “why-ins”, which might be bottled using in-house-fermented fig, strawberry, apple, carrot or beetroot on any given day. At Wine is Fine! on a hidden corner in the centre of the city, natural, low-intervention wines take centre stage in a bistro-style setting (the co-owners are Greek and French). But you don’t have to be in the centre of the city to enjoy good wine, in fact some of the more low-key but oh-so-cool hangouts are found in the city’s suburbs, like Eprepe Bar in Kypseli, whose wine list focusses on those of the natural variety and is served alongside a creative cocktail menu and larger-than-your-average small plates. Also in Kypseli, Mellem is a good day-to-night hangout where coffee orders often segue into long evenings over Greek wines.
People Watch In Monastiraki Square
Athens is made up of many a ‘plateia’ which translates to ‘square’. In fact, they make up the fabric of the city, located in every residential area and acting as a place for those who live nearby to socialise – perhaps meeting up with friends and family over a freddo cappuccino in the morning or an ice cream at night. Vibrant Monastiraki Square is the main ‘plateia’ for socialising at in the centre of Athens. It’s also one of the oldest areas of the city, dating back to the 18th century and surrounded by ancient sites like Hadrian’s Library, an 18th-century mosque (one of the only surviving mosques from the Ottoman period in Greece), and the church of Panagia Pantanassa, which was built in the 10th century. Despite (or perhaps because of) all its history, this square is one of the liveliest areas of Athens at any given time – somewhat of a microcosm of Athens itself. You’ll also get a pretty good view of the Acropolis from the square, but better still if you visit one of the many surrounding rooftop bars…
Take In The City Skyline From A Rooftop Bar
Some of the best Acropolis views are found on the rooftops surrounding Monastiraki Square and there are plenty – 360°, A for Athens, Hyper Astro Bar and Attic Urban Rooftop to name a few. But, in my opinion, some of the nicer rooftop bars in terms of quality and vibe lay slightly further away. Retiré at Ergon House is one of my more relaxed favourites; Taratsa (pictured) is the place to visit for dinner with a view; visit GB Roof Garden for a sophisticated sundowner; and – my all-time favourite – head to the rooftop at The Dolli hotel for views that stretch across an outdoor pool, followed by the terracotta roofs of Plaka, before landing on the Acropolis. Book this one in advance.
Find Anafiotika, A Hidden Village On The Acropolis Hill
I’ll admit, the very first time I tried to find this small island-like settlement on the Acropolis hill, I failed. I’d been told stories about how cute it was; how it looked exactly like a small village transplanted from an island, with whitewashed walls studded with blue-framed windows. I wandered around in search of it, but in the end gave up. It wasn’t until a few months later that I tried again, with clear instructions from a friend: “start in Plaka and use Google Maps to get to the Cave of Acropolis restaurant, walk past it and take the road immediately on the right. Follow this road and keep going – you’ll soon hit Anafiotika”. It worked a charm, and truly this is the most charming – and perhaps also most hidden – neighbourhood in Athens too. You’ll come across some tourists here, but not as many as most other places in Athens. While it’s a great spot for photography, this is a residential area with small winding paths that pass right in front of people’s front doors so a bit of respect regarding noise levels is always a good idea.
Tour The Art Galleries
I would go as far as to say that Athens is as creative as it is historic, and there’s a whole load of art and culture to take in throughout the city (and beyond the ancient). Much of the city’s creativity has come to light over the past 10-or-so years, and while lots of it plays out in larger-than-life murals across city walls, there’s plenty to discover in its galleries too. EMST is a good place to start, housed in a former brewery and with a compelling roster of rotating contemporary art exhibitions: Kasper Bosmans’ The Fuzzy Gaze and Emma Talbot’s textile installation Human/Nature are both on now until February 2026. Perhaps one of the city’s most long-awaited museums, the Alekos Fassianos Museum opened in 2023, a year after the late-Greek painter’s death. Located within his former Athens’ home it showcases the evolution of his work with pieces spanning the 60s through to those created in his final years. Further south, Piraeus (home to Athens’ main ferry port) has become a hub of creativity with a number of independent galleries opening up: Sylvia Kouvali has found a home here, inside a former warehouse with current shows including Egyptian-Canadian artist Anna Boghiguian’s large-scale installations exploring maritime history (on until 26 October 2026). Athens is also home to some global big-hitters, like Gagosian in upscale Kolonaki.
Visit The Beaches On The Athens Riviera
The Athens Riviera is undergoing a serious revival. Popular with the international jet-set throughout the 60s, things took a downturn for many years but started to lift again with the (re)opening of the Four Seasons hotel in 2019, which began to draw tourists back to the area. But this 45-mile-long stretch of sandy coastline was never forgotten by Athenians, who have been packing out the beaches each and every summer in an attempt to beat the Greek heat. If you’re braver than me, you’ll still be able to swim during October: Astir Beach or the natural Lake Vouliagmeni are two of the more popular spots to sink into a lounger. If your visit falls later in the year, the beaches are still pleasant to visit most months, but the sea perhaps a little less tempting. Four Seasons Astir Palace, One&Only Aesthesis and Varoulko restaurant are some of the best spots for elevated plates overlooking the sea, or head to Edem for a low-key, good vibes dinner of grilled squid, steamed mussels and dolmades.
Drink A Cup Of Coffee - Morning, Noon Or Night
You’ll soon discover that Greeks take their coffee seriously. Very seriously. Walk down any street and you’ll come across café after café within seconds of each other – but not all are made equal. For a taste of the traditional, Mokka brews their Greek coffee in the sand and is run by fourth-generation roasters who have caffeinated Athenians from this very spot for over 100 years. One of my favourite spots for coffee and a catch-up with friends is The Art Foundation (TAF): hidden down the maze of backstreets near Monastiraki Square, this is an easy-going courtyard that’s as good for coffee as it is for cocktails. You’ll need to use Google Maps to find it – and trust that it’s taken you to the right place as you enter the all-but-unmarked door into an 1870s Neoclassical building. Save time to check out the small boutique stores and rotating exhibition spaces that surround the tables, too. Need some time to work? Plegma Coffee & Living in Pangrati is one of the best places to do so, and it’s also a stylish interiors concept store (because everyone needs a retail-therapy break from the laptop once in a while, right?). Elsewhere, Little Tree Books & Coffee and Kinono are also top work-pleasure-coffee spots.
Pick Up A Bargain At Avissinias Square Flea Market
Swerve the more touristy flea market leading off from Monastiraki Square (though it is worth a wander through it – you’ll find it via a big overhead signpost to guide you) and head to Avissinias Square on a Sunday morning for the real deal. Vendors set up here weekly, selling anything from trombones and saxophones, vinyl records and gramophones, maps, books, clothes, picture frames, toys, jewellery, old magazines, embroidery, pottery, silverware and, honestly, a whole lot more too. Arrive early (around 9am) to snag the best pieces – and bring your haggling skills to negotiate the best prices.
Visit the Acropolis
No trip to Athens would be complete without a visit to the Acropolis – in fact, for many people it’s the top reason to visit. Autumn is the best time to do so as climbing up this 157-metre hill is not pleasant during hot summer days and, at times, the site is closed to public access to mitigate more-common-than-you-might-think illnesses due to extreme heat. Time of year regardless, it’s best to visit as soon as it opens (8am), to avoid the crowds. The official place to buy Acropolis tickets is on the Hellenic Heritage website, and it’s worth noting that as of 2024 all bookings are made for a specific time – you’ll be given a 15-minute leeway either side of your booking but if you arrive before or after that time, there’s a chance you’ll be denied entry. There are also plenty of companies offering guided or audio tours which, as someone who’s visited plenty of times minus guides and once with, I would highly recommend using to help bring its history to life. After you’ve finished, find your way to Areopagus Hill – this cluster of rocks is said to have been a court in Greek mythology and later became the first supreme court of ancient Athens. Today it’s a gathering place for those who want to see the city from above and offers some of the best aerial views of Athens.
And The Acropolis Museum
Don’t skip on the Acropolis Museum while you’re here, in fact my advice would be to visit before climbing the Acropolis hill as it’s a wealth of information on the history of Athens. And it begins before you even enter. Look down through the glass floor as you approach the museum’s door – you’re walking atop an excavated ancient Athenian neighbourhood. Unsurprisingly the focus once inside is on the Acropolis site: spread across four floors, you’ll see ancient finds from the Acropolis hill; large statues and sculptures spanning the 5th – 7th centuries; friezes and pediments from the star of the show, the Parthanon; and, notably, five of the world-famous Caryatids standing proud, with a space between them reserved for their sixth sister – a sign on the wall explains that “the sixth is in the British Museum”. Perhaps one of the most surprising elements of this museum though, is its modern design by Bernard Tschumi and Michael Photiadis, whose €130-million redesign was revealed in 2009 using sleek glass façades that allow natural light to shine, and that, in many sections, draw your eye towards the real-life ancient citadel outside, just 300-metres away. There’s a café here too, and its outdoor terrace comes with serious Acropolis views. This is a museum that will impress even those who don’t usually like museums.
Spend Time In The More Gritty But Very-Hip Suburbs Of Kypseli And Exarchia
Most visitors to Athens stay in the centre, exploring and ticking off the big hitters (all very worthy of your time, and many of them on this list too). But to do so doesn’t really allow you to get a true feel for this wonderfully charismatic city. To see the real Athens – grit, grime, graffiti and all – you need to visit the less touristy areas. We’ll start with Kypseli, the area I currently call home. I love nothing more than a weekend wander through its pedestrianised streets: stopping for coffee at Santo Belto, Williwaw or Kick, or sometimes hidden away in the courtyard at Cultivo Coffee. Combine it with pastries – because what is a Greek morning without a pastry? My top spots include Marili for traditional Georgian bakes or a chocolate babka at Flake. In the afternoon, you may find me at Kypseli Market, which is more of a cultural centre that often hosts workshops and popups. By night? Eating Syrian food at Tastes of Damascus, elevated Greek plates at Dylan, Ethiopian dishes at Lalibela, or some of the city’s best pizza at Lisa. In Exarchia it’s always coffee and a spot of people watching at behold theman, then vintage shopping at Yesterday’s Bread and Anthophile Vintage before Greek plates for dinner at Ama Lachi, Giantes or Pharaoh – sometimes swapped with Afghan dishes at the very low-key but very tasty Folia. Honestly, I’m sure some Greeks reading this would tell you this is bad advice – and you might well come across a spray-painted scrawl in Exarchia that reads ‘tourists not welcome here’, but pay it no mind. Just don’t wander off down the back alleys at night and stay aware of your surroundings and I’m (99%) sure you’ll be fine. What’s life without a bit of adventure anyway?
Take A Day Trip To The Nearby Islands
Yes, you can still visit the islands at this time of year. And yes, it will still be warm. This might be a list about things to do in Athens, but you don’t have to forgo the islands all together. In fact, I’d go as far as to say that if you have time to explore the city centre and take a day trip to the islands, it’s one of the best things you can do. And there are options: leaving from the city’s southern coastline, Athens All Day Cruise sets sail on a nine-hour trip to Aegina and Agistri then back to Athens every day until mid-November; YachtHop offers private full-day cruises to islands including Aegina, Hydra or Spetses via catamaran or motorboat until the end of October; and with SamBoat you can browse flexible boat hire options, plus skipper and captain should you wish, for as long or as little as you like (think of it like an Airbnb but for boats). Prefer to see the sights from above? hoper is a new inter-island helicopter service offering private or shared flights to Greek islands including Mykonos, Santorini, Tinos and Milos, among many others.
Lead image credit: The Dolli, Athens
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Any Questions or Tips to add?