Just when you thought you’d conquered all the Cycladic Greek islands, another you’d perhaps not heard of creeps onto your radar.
Welcome to Syros, the authentic, compact capital of the Cyclades that stands out from others thanks to its year-round population and lived-in rather than touristy feel. Home to a small university, a thriving arts scene and several local festivals, Syros is the island you can (and should!) visit in autumn through winter: its sun-soaked marble-clad streets are a hive of action in all seasons, and lined with grand pastel-coloured palazzos, boutiques, cafes, bars and galleries.
Add a clutch of secluded sandy beaches for when the weather is warm enough, rugged walking trails, wineries and an excellent dining scene, and you’ll soon see why Syros is a charming Greek island, and a worthy alternative to neighbouring Mykonos, Milos and Santorini.
This is the CF guide to Syros.
STAY
Argini
Syros’s newest hotel, the plush, five-star Argini was restored over seven years by Yiannis Polykretis who grew up next door and has a passion for local history. A traditional restored 11-room neoclassical mansion, it whisks guests back to the 1850s, with its soaring ceilings painted with frescoes depicting mythical creatures and heroes of the Greek Revolution. Rooms are sleek and contemporary, extremely peaceful, and have super comfy beds.
Breakfast is served each morning on a shaded terrace, while rooftop restaurant, Elexis, is a sleek spot for modern Greek classics, overlooking the town which glows at sunset and twinkles at night. Just a ten-minute walk from the port, Argini holds court in the upmarket Vaporia neighbourhood of marble-clad Ermoupoli, the island’s capital. The hotel’s location places you two minutes from the waterfront, Asteria, which is home to a local summertime-favourite: a small stone platform with steps into the sea and views of the Venetian-style mansions that line the coastline. In the basement, the mansion’s original cistern (featuring vaulted ceilings) is home to the island’s only hammam and a small heated indoor hydromassage pool.
EAT + DRINK
Hygge
Views are quite a sight at this modern, Mediterranean restaurant in Ano Syros, located roughly 900 steps above Ermoupoli’s harbour (taxis are also available if you don’t fancy the hike). Open for dinner, arrive early to stroll around the town’s narrow alleyways filled with small boutique shops, cafes and bars. Sanded light-wood tables and chairs fill a small jazz-filled dining room with a rustic Scandi-style feel and huge sliding windows overlooking the hills across to the sparkling Aegean. Generous portions of fresh dishes like orzo and king prawns are served in simple stoneware bowls. Book ahead.
Armadillo Coffee Brewery
Armadillo coffee brewery is a one-minute walk from Miaouli Plaza (pictured). Image credit Municipality of Syros
Back from the waterfront and just off the town square, Miaouli Plaza, enjoy a morning coffee at this buzzy local-favourite spot set along a plant-filled alley lined with Instagram-worthy eateries. Armadillo stands out with its turquoise woodwork, and shady, music-drenched terrace filled with wooden tables dressed in tiny potted succulents. Artisan coffees come served in handmade ceramic cups (which are also for sale inside).
Django Gelato
It’s no great stretch to say that this tiny ice cream shop founded in Syros in 2005 sells the best on the island – and maybe the whole of Greece. Its philosophy is simple: no unnatural ingredients or preservatives, which guarantees freshness and authentic flavour. Signature flavours include the dreamy fior di latte and crème Catalana. Watch the makers at work inside while you wait for your order.
Theosis
Theosis is located in the hilltop town of Ano Syros (pictured)
A cocktail bar worth a detour, Theosis – often dubbed the best bar on the island – sits along an alleyway in hilltop Ano Syros (pictured). Settle in for beautifully crafted inventive cocktails with Greek-inspired names, such as the Pothos (Aluzar Tequila Blanco, raspberry and bubbles) and the Apollo (Evan Williams Bourbon, peach, menthe, citrus, botanicals and egg white). Low stools and colourful rugs set out on the marble walkway outside add bohemian flair.
Things To Do
Go Shopping in Ermoupoli
It’s a delight to wander around Ermoupoli, its streets lined with a glorious mix of small boutiques. Shop for handmade scents in traditional brown glass bottles at the Aromatopoleion Perfumery; taste traditional island sweets at Leivadaras (loukoumia is an island speciality and like Turkish delight, and halvadopita is a nougat pie made with almonds and honey sandwiched between thin wafers, both have roots in current-day Turkey); browse a great selection of Greek wines at Kritsinis, the oldest wine cellar in Greece, open since 1917; discover designer ceramics and interiors at Motif; and try on luxurious linen dresses and trousers at Protasis. While exploring the town, make time to visit the Apollon Theatre, which is a replica of Milan’s La Scala.
Go Wine Tasting
There are several must-visit wineries on Syros. These include Para Kopois in the island’s rural south which opened in 2018 and specialises in rare Greek grape varieties like Serifiotiko. Tastings include three labels and a platter of cold local treats. A trip to Chatzakis takes you to the island’s remote north and the village of San Michalis known for its cheese. Set up on a hill, the winery opened in 2011 by Nikos Chatzakis who likes to experiment and collaborate. Tastings are held on a small terrace overlooking the vineyards.
Spend the Day at the ONO Beach Club
A sprawling, sophisticated earth-toned club, ONO sits at the northern end of lovely Agathopes beach, Syros’s prettiest and most popular – a long, broad sweep of sand on the west coast loved by locals for its pristine crystal-clear waters. Luxurious loungers under crochet-woven umbrellas dot the beach and an elevated section by the plant-filled bar and restaurant. Settle in for creative cocktails, brunch, snacks, salads, pasta and main courses, all made with ingredients grown in the ONO garden. Stand outs include kagianas (also known as strapatsada), a Greek version of shakshuka with lots of feta, brisket tortilla and burrata salad.
Thank you to EasyJet for supporting our research with return flights from London to Athens and SeaJets for return ferry tickets to Athens.
We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.
Any Questions or Tips to add?