In the foothills of the Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage Mountain range in the northern Italian Alps, Trentino’s hybrid identity gives this side of Italy its own unique character.
Part of the Austro-Hungarian empire before WWI, the region as a whole is simultaneously Italian and German in its traditions and customs. A two-hour drive from Venice or 90 minutes from Verona, this spectacularly scenic corner of Italy is treasured by locals.
Now that the secret’s out, it’s emerging as a prime destination for ski enthusiasts and nature lovers looking for somewhere more relaxed and authentic, with plenty to see and do on and off the slopes.
STAY
Cavallino Lovely Hotel
Stay in the Paganella ski area, north of Lake Garda and a short drive from the city of Trento, for easy access to the slopes. In the bustling town of Andalo, boutique hotels neighbour craft beer shops and small delis selling handmade pasta. Cavallino Lovely Hotel is just a five-minute walk from the Andalo-Doss Pelà ski lift, with a ski hire shop downstairs. Inside, the wood-panelled rooms and suites are bright and airy, each with direct views of the mountains. Some of the fourth floor rooms have expansive terraces that become bathed in natural light by lunch.
After a day on the slopes, there’s a subterranean spa to retreat to, with two saunas, a steam room and a swimming pool that’s family friendly. For breakfast, tuck into a medley of local mountain cheeses and a sprawling display of pastries and fruit. By night, the hotel’s retro bar is an intimate spot for a warming nightcap, stocked with kaleidoscopic bottles of grappa in different flavours. The amber-hued, honey-flavoured style of grappa is warming from the inside out, and not too sweet.
EAT + DRINK
Remote mountain huts are all part of the experience here, showing off the region’s rustic gastronomy. At night, when the slopes are off limits, there’s the option to travel by snowmobile to one of the many mountain restaurants. We did this on our first night, hopping on a huge tractor contraption, which plods along the snow in a fairy-tale woodland forest. The location of Baita Pineta restaurant (open every weekend and during the Christmas/New Year season) is wonderful, completely remote and submerged in a woodland forest.
Once aperitivo hour strikes, platters of cured meat and speck – a local smoked ham – are passed around the table, served with a selection of alpine cheeses. Come hungry as the dishes here are hearty – and be ready to translate the Italian-only menu steeped in German classics, like polenta, dumplings and warming broths. The drinks menu spotlights local wines from the area, including Teroldego Rotaliano – a full-bodied red referred to as the Prince of Trentino for its distinct character. Indulge in a generous selection of Italian and German sweet treats for dessert, ranging from apple strudel to sweet ricotta dumplings, and Kaiserschmarrn pancakes. In Trento, don’t miss Antica Trattoria Due Mori for even more regional recipes, such as Strangolapreti (spinach gnocchi), and rich stews that come with Trentino-style pasta.
What To Do
Go Skiing
Paganella is a family-friendly ski resort with wide, open pistes and an abundance of nursery and beginner slopes. Tots and first-timers can ease themselves in on the gentle runs of Laghet, with its excellent ski schools and groomed slopes. Fai della Paganella is another option for beginners wanting to finesse those tricky turns. Stop at Dosso Larici Alpine Hut to catch the restaurant’s adorable pet llamas, Merlin and Lupin, basking in the sun. Experienced skiers can get their fix on the black run, Pista dei Campioni, or go off-piste on some steep, tree-lined descents.
Beyond the slopes, let the little ones roam free in one of Andalo’s local parks. Gaggia Park hosts informative nature workshops inspired by the mountains, as well as picnic areas in Cavedago and treasure hunts in San Lorenzo Dorsino. Come summer, there’s ski mountaineering, cycle routes, and miles of signposted hiking trails that meander through quaint mountain villages.
Visit Trento
Off the slopes, Trento is a charming mediaeval city with its fair share of tales and legends. Begin a guided walking tour at Castello del Buonconsiglio for some context, a statuesque castle once home to the prince bishops of Trento. En route to the charming Piazza Duomo – Trento’s main square – you’ll discover architectural remnants of the region’s Austrian roots, mainly in the windows of apartments and the door of a small 19th-century German church. Turbulent tales from the early modern age right through to contemporary history are interwoven into the alleyways and piazzas. Beyond the legends and fables, Trento has a medley of restaurants and pavement cafes; don’t miss Casa del Caffè for a strong Italian coffee, or an aperol spritz anywhere in the main square.
Go Wine Tasting
Driving through the countryside, Trentino’s superb scenery is carpeted in vast vineyards that stretch for miles at a time. With its cool climate, steep slopes and mineral-rich soil, the region has a remarkably long winemaking tradition, dating back over 2,000 years. With over 400 hectares of vineyards to explore, the Rotaliana area is home to a mix of centuries-old wineries and a steady stream of new winemakers, resulting in a rich and diverse tapestry of labels.
A short drive from Lake Molveno, Marco Donati is set in an idyllic swathe of vine-plaited fields, surrounded by hulking peaks that frame the landscape. Look closely enough and you’ll just make out the shape of a former mediaeval castle etched into the side of a mountain. Founded in 1863 by Luigi Donati, the Marco Donati vineyard has been passed down through six generations. Here, Elisabetta runs the day-to-day business with her parents, Marco and Emanuela Donati. Taking us first through the technicalities of growing through to fermentation, she balances her viticulture knowledge with a clear introduction to the area’s local traditions. The tour ends with a laidback but informative wine tasting with Elisabetta, who talks through each label with palpable enthusiasm. You could easily spend an afternoon hopping from vineyard to vineyard in Rotaliana alone, living la dolce vita. Such is the way of life here – whether you’re after varied slopes, an intrepid adventure in the wilderness, or a cultural city break with exceptional food and wine – Trentino has it all.
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