Ask most discerning travellers, and Japan often sits at the top of their bucket list, trumping destinations the world over. This is the CF guide to Tokyo and Kyoto, two of Japan’s most popular tourist destinations.
For first-time visitors, carving out two to three weeks to fully immerse yourself in Japanese culture and to experience the country’s varied landscapes and cities, is advisable. If you’re strapped for time, we recommend a week split between Tokyo, Japan’s sprawling capital, and Kyoto, the country’s cultural hub. You’ll be able to experience the best of what Japan has to offer, from the bright lights and ever-evolving culinary scene in Tokyo to Kyoto’s historic temples, serene gardens, and alluring geisha district. Read on for the best places to sleep, eat, and visit in both cities below.
STAY
Janu Tokyo
There’s no shortage of luxury hotels across the capital, but Janu might just be the most exciting of them all at the moment: this relative newcomer by Janu (sibling brand to Aman) is one of Tokyo’s glossiest new additions. Occupying a sleek new-build in Azabudai Hills, expect sprawling suites that soar above the skyline, each kitted out with luxe furnishings and offering uninterrupted vistas over the city below. There’s an impressive smorgasbord of places to wine and dine, ranging from an intimate 13-person omakase restaurant to an open-kitchen Italian brasserie, where you can slurp down oysters and just-caught seafood while watching the chefs in action. After days spent racking up your step count around the city, unwind at the show-stopping wellness centre, which occupies 4,000 square metres and stretches across three floors, encompassing a super-sized gym, boxing and yoga studios, private ‘spa houses’ kitted out with private hammams, and one of the largest indoor pools in Tokyo.
Six Senses Kyoto
Tucked within Kyoto’s historic Higashiyama, Six Senses Kyoto subtly blends in among the centuries-old temples and tranquil gardens that it’s wrapped by. Slick bedrooms feature floor-to-ceiling panoramas of the skyline, and are outfitted in classic Japanese materials of stone, wood, and tatami. When you’re not exploring the temples and bamboo groves on the hotel’s doorstep, head downstairs to the seductive subterranean spa, where you’ll find onsen-style baths, a clutch of relaxation rooms to kick back in, and even a bio-hacking area complete with massage belts and LED masks. The excellent in-house restaurant prioritises hyper-seasonal cooking (the menu evolves according to Japan’s 24 micro-seasons), and champions local produce – some of which is grown in the hotel’s own kitchen gardens.
Maana Homes Kyoto
For a home-from-home experience as opposed to an all-frills hotel check-in, bed down at Maana Homes, a collective of carefully considered stays across Kyoto. Their three properties range from a reimagined machiya (traditional Japanese wooden townhouse) to a modern townhouse just minutes from geisha-dotted Gion: in each, individual suites feature delicate washi-paper lanterns, natural stone bathtubs, and calming colour schemes. Browse the Maana boutique, where you can purchase ceramics and artworks from local artisans and bring a slice of Kyoto home with you – there’s also a cafe serving all-day brunch, and newly launched event space Maana Atelier, for taking part in fermentation workshops and traditional tea ceremonies.
EAT + DRINK: TOKYO
CAMELBACK
Just a short walk away from Shibuya’s Yoyogi Park and Meiji Shrine, this take-away only espresso and sandwich bar serves some of the best coffee in Tokyo. Swing by for an expertly poured flat white, and don’t miss one of their famous egg sandwiches: a sticky brioche bun envelopes a pillow-like omelette that melts on your tongue, and has a surprisingly sweet aftertaste. The baristas here are incredibly friendly, and you’ll be rubbing shoulders with some of the most stylish locals in town.
Butagumi
The dedication to well-enjoyed katsu is taken so seriously here that customers wearing perfume are simply turned away at the door, for fear that it might spoil other guests’ dining experience. Expect the meat to take centre stage as part of your meal: tonkatsu (breaded, deep-fried pork cutlets) are sizzled to perfection and served with a small selection of sides. Butagumi has somewhat of a cult following, so make sure to reserve a table weeks in advance to risk disappointment.
EAT + DRINK: KYOTO
Sugari
You’ll find Sugari’s slick noodle bars dotted across Kyoto, each discreetly tucked behind a nameless, unassuming façade. Step inside and order from an iPad before slipping upstairs, where you’ll discover sleek ramen counters, where guests slurp up deliciously chewy, soft noodles in intensely flavourful broth.
Songbird
This cafe-come-design-shop serves some of the tastiest katsu sandwiches in Kyoto. Expect fluffy, melt-in-the-mouth egg sandos alongside a range of other brunch dishes and superb coffee. You’ll also find a chic design store under the same roof, where you can eye up Japanese furniture and homewares.
WHAT TO DO: TOKYO & KYOTO
Japanese tea ceremony
Taking part in a traditional tea ceremony is something of a rite of passage for first-time visitors to Japan. Tea ceremonies are often deliberate and slow experiences, allowing you to fully unwind and savour the moment – as well as the tea. In Tokyo, book an experience at Hama-rikyu Garden teahouse, which dangles above a lake and is set within scenic, landscaped gardens in the heart of the city. Meanwhile, at Rokujuan, a 100 year-old teahouse in Kyoto, you’ll sip on traditional teas and nibble delicate mochi while looking into a serene inner garden.
Temple-hopping
Both Tokyo and Kyoto are littered with hundreds of timeworn temples. In Tokyo, the most famous and oldest temple of all, Senso-ji, is located in the city’s Asakusa district, which is worth carving out a day to pootle around. In Kyoto, most of the city’s best-known temples are clustered in and around Gion: while most visitors flock to Kiyomizu-dera and Yasaka Shrine, this historic quarter has plenty of smaller and less-trodden ones worth exploring too.
Visit the food markets
Sample fresh seafood, sweets, and a range of Japanese foods in one fell swoop by visiting a traditional Japanese food market. In Kyoto, Nishiki Market is the most famous of all: despite swarming with crowds every day, it’s worth a wander if only to ogle at the goods on display – while you’re at it, make sure to try some of the best matcha soft-serve in town from Sawawa. The equivalent in Tokyo is Tsukiji Market: head here early to beat the crowds, before visiting the swish food halls at Isetan and Mitsukoshi, two of Ginza and Shinjuku’s swankiest shopping malls, for premium treats and delicacies.
Get into nature
It’s possible to slow down and sink into nature even in the busiest of cities. In Tokyo, serene gardens provide pockets of calm among the relentless hustle: visit Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden, which sprawls over 144 acres, and features 1,500 cherry blossom trees, or head to Nezu Museum Garden, a quieter alternative. Over in Kyoto, you’ll find a host of peaceful bamboo groves dotted in and around the city. Skip Arashiyama Bamboo Forest in favour of Adashino Nenbutsuji and Kodaiji Temple, both of which are home to bamboo groves that are much more secluded.
Lead image credit: Amanu Tokyo
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