Staying in a 13th-century château with a medieval spa that’s partnered with Odacité feels like the stuff of French fairytales. Lisa Haynes checks in to Domaine des Etangs Auberge for our Spa of the Month.
Hidden among 2,500 acres of wild forest and meadows in the small town of Massignac in southwestern France, Domaine des Etangs Auberge feels (and looks) like you’re stepping into a storybook.
THE LOWDOWN
This 13th-century château – and its sprawling green estate – has evolved into a modern-day sanctuary devoted to l’art de vivre – the French way of living the good life, slowly, with the bonus of spa treatments and a world-class wine list. It’s just a couple of hours away from Paris but feels like the antithesis of city living.
The grand stone château is home to 11 rooms and suites (one of which I’d vote into the top three hotel rooms I’ve ever stayed in), as well as six beautiful farmhouse cottages dotted around the grounds and overlooking rolling hills for those seeking more privacy.
THE SPA
Moulin des Etangs is as unique as the château when it comes to your spa experience setting. With a philosophy that’s deeply tied to nature, it’s little wonder that it’s picked up awards like Best Countryhouse Spa (World Spa Awards). A short stroll over a stone bridge, this standalone wellness haven is located in a 12th-century mill by the water that feels serene, rustic and inspired by its verdant surroundings. We’re welcomed with a tonic of elderberry, acia and pomegranate served in crystal beakers as we take a tour of the ancient spa building in our robes and slippers. There are five cosy treatment rooms, each named after the elements in French, as well as the expansive Ether couples’ treatment room that houses huge wooden cog mechanisms as a reminder of the building’s former use as a mill. At the cellar level of the château, there’s space to relax in the Gallo-Roman inspired Les Thermes where you can do circuits of the Calidarium, Frigidarium, Tepidarium, and indoor and outdoor pools.
The spa has recently teamed up with French-Californian skincare brand Odacité, whose fusion of raw botanicals and clinical-grade actives makes the partnership feel effortlessly aligned. Three bespoke Odacité signature treatments, developed exclusively for Domaine des Etangs Auberge by founder Valérie Grandury, now form part of the treatment menu. I chose the Nano-Infusion Facial, which feels like the perfect fusion of raw nature, clinical-grade actives and tech. Odacité signature oils and a gentle rose face peel are followed by the use of a professional-grade Nano-Infusion pen to stimulate microcirculation and to allow for deeper delivery of product actives. Halfway through the treatment, I’m shown the visible lift on one side of my treated face. Factor in a finale 10-minute sheet mask and spritz of Hydra-Vitalize Treatment Mist (with rose and neroli) and the after-glow is next level.
THE ROOMS
Art and nature views are the quiet but powerful statements weaved throughout rooms at Domaine des Etangs Auberge. The on-site art gallery features works from celebrated artists Richard Long, Tomás Saraceno and Irina Rasquinet and the incredible appreciation of art is echoed in rooms with a mix of modern and traditional pieces. Occasionally, it feels like a privilege to stay in a room as a custodian during your stay. On the top floor of the château, the characterful Venus Signature Suite is one of them. Beaming with natural light from the shuttered windows, the sprawling 1,582-square-foot space, complete with parlour room, feels like you’re entering the home of someone with exquisite taste, thanks to its mix of contemporary art, antique furniture, statement lighting and collection of coffee table books.
Each suite and room is just as individual, and detail intentional, as if the interior designer has taken months or even years to curate each space. The hotel’s dragonfly emblem delicately graces everything from towels, to robes, to corners of pillows. Other details include French brand Sothys products in the bathroom and Aigle wellington boots in the walk-in wardrobe ready for countryside stomps.
THE DINING
The settings at Domaine des Etangs take the nature-inspired gastronomy to another level, from sunny al fresco picnic lunches in a peaceful glade, to a traditional French barbeque in the chef’s garden, and a private candle-lit dinner in Monade – the château’s private dining room. The property’s Michelin-Star signature restaurant, Dyades is headed up by executive chef Matthieu Pasgrimaud and celebrates a farm-to-table ethos – little surprise when produce, herbs and even Instagram-worthy edible flowers are freshly sourced from the estate’s own organic vegetable garden and forests.
Leave space for a marathon feast of fresh pastries in the morning. While there are à la carte options, roaming the farmhouse-style kitchen to pick out the mouth-watering buffet extras, warm pastries and freshly-squeezed juices, brings a special touch to the breakfast spread.
THE LITTLE EXTRAS
Keep your diary (and mind) open for the transformative wellbeing retreats and Visiting Masters program led by Moulin des Etangs for 2026. The curated line-up includes world-class healers, thought leaders, and industry experts. This summer saw an immersive three-day experience with London-based sound healer and meditation expert, Stephanie Waxberg. There’s also year-round bespoke Beauty Workshops designed to help you decode your skin with personalised treatment sessions.
THE TO-DO LIST
Curated by celebrated landscape gardener Camille Muller, the extensive gardens at Domaine des Etangs Auberge are a to-do list in themselves, dotted with statement sculptures and art installations. Look out for the dedicated ‘Art & Nature’ trails. Domaine des Etangs also has over six miles of walking and biking trails to explore by land, or there’s the opportunity for rowboating on the pond. Bringing nature to sporting activities, the standout gym, aka La Salle de Sport (housed in a greenhouse), looks like a botanical masterpiece too, and the signature tennis court floats majestically over the pond.
If you want to venture further afield, other local experiences for your itinerary include in-season truffle hunting, cognac tasting, horse riding, fishing, or golf. If your luggage can handle precious cargo, organise an exclusive tour of the Bernardaud Manufacture in Limoges to discover the art of porcelain.
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