In our ongoing series, Millie Walton selects and explores the world’s best art hotels. This month, she finds herself at L’And in Alentejo.
Alentejo is Portugal’s driest and hottest region. Once primarily farmland, and still very much shaped by agriculture, its wild, expansive landscapes are increasingly drawing in travellers, with a clutch of stylish hotels now staking out space among the cattle and vines. Established in 2011, L’And Vineyards is both farm and hotel. Huge silver wine tanks stand sentinel in the main courtyard and a sleek tasting room invites guests to blend their own wine.
The Concept
L’And Vineyards is a deeply romantic hotel, both in its setting and its philosophy. Its manifesto opens with the line: ‘we believe in simplicity and slowness’, a guiding principle that informs everything from the cultivation of grapes to the pared-back architecture, from the emphasis on natural materials to the hotel’s commitment to transparency and community.
Marcio Kogan’s design isn’t exactly of the land – the main building looks a little like a spaceship – but its white facade and sculptural voids become a canvas for the light as it shifts throughout the day. The cobalt-tiled swimming pool is sunken into the lawn so that you tread from grass into water. A deck over the lake offers a firepit and paddle boards (you can swim here too), while a meandering path leads through six acres of vineyards.
It’s also the only hotel we’ve visited with a booklet in each room introducing every member of staff, complete with portraits – an unexpectedly intimate nod to the collective effort behind the place. Each season even has its own curated playlist.
The Collection
The art collection at L’And Vineyards is sparing but thoughtfully curated, in keeping with the clean lines and meditative mood. Where there are artworks, they serve to reflect local culture, artistry and the beauty of the natural setting. Standout pieces include ethereal sky paintings by Michael Biberstein, who lived in the nearby town of Alandroal and was influenced by the expansiveness of the region’s landscapes. There are also mixed-media works by the celebrated Portuguese artist Julião Sarmento, and a display of Figurado de Estremoz – hand-painted clay figures, a traditional Alentejo craft recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The Design Details
Every part of the hotel feels considered, as if you’re stepping into a set or a painting – wherever you stand there’s something beautiful or interesting to look at. Sightlines are purposeful: each space frames a specific view or cultivates a particular mood.
The furniture is equally well curated to enhance the warm, simplicity of the place: high-backed armchairs by Vladimir Kagan; sculptural chairs by Jorge Zalszupin; an elegant bench by George Nakashima and poufs by the Portuguese brand Fabricaal, inspired by traditional Alentejo blankets. The wool rugs in the bedrooms are also handcrafted by Fabricaal, following in the tradition of the outdoor garments worn by shepherds of the region.
In the restaurant, Mapa, a constellation of copper and brass Tom Dixon lamps hangs at varying heights, while the floor-to-ceiling windows can be fully opened so you feel as if you’re dining in the trees. The Vinotherapy spa contrasts warm wood with exposed brick, with a serene pool, sauna and steam room. Before treatments you’re offered grapes and herbal tea grown on-site, and the oils and scrubs are made using grape pulp and other natural ingredients.
The Rooms
The hotel has 37 rooms and 7 villas, with the sky view suites being the most atmospheric. These feature large square windows over the beds so you can sleep beneath the stars or watch the sunrise transform the sky into a Biberstein-esque composition. Ours included a private plunge pool in the patio, which fills on demand like an oversized outdoor bath, as well as a deep-soak tub in the Japanese-inspired bathroom. As a year-round hotel, all rooms have fireplaces; ours also had a firepit on the front terrace, which staff lit for us one evening so we could curl up by the flames and sip a glass of red before dinner.
The Food & Drink
There are two restaurants at L’And: Café da Viagem and Mapa. Café da Viagem is a casual, all-day dining spot which extends out onto a deck overhanging the lake. Complimentary tea is also served here daily at 5pm with homemade tea and cakes.
Mapa is the fine dining restaurant. The morning spread is an artful assemblage of fresh fruit, breads, pastries, bee pollen, granola and honeycomb, plus a few à la carte hot dishes. Dinner, however, is on an entirely different level. Portuguese chef David Jesus crafts a variety of set menus centred on local ingredients, presented as a sequence of small, beautifully theatrical dishes. Each course is named simply after its main element – ‘Tomato’, ‘Hake’, ‘Chocolate’ – with little more explanation. The results are surprising, playful and delicious.
Art in the Neighbourhood
Alentejo itself isn’t known as a cultural hotspot, it’s more vineyards and farms than galleries, but you’re less than an hour from Lisbon, which has a thriving art scene. The Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology is currently showing work by Welsh artist Cerith Wyn Evans, including one of his monumental neon installations. Last autumn saw the opening of the Kengo Kuma–designed Centro de Arte Moderna Gulbenkian, which houses an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art. It’s also worth visiting the Museu de Arte Contemporânea to explore collector Armando Martins’ holdings, which include works by Marina Abramović and Olafur Eliasson.
Images credit to L’And, Alentejo
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