Overlooking the St Andrews shoreline with seven championship courses unfurling in front of it, the Old Course Hotel has a presence long before you step inside.
Owned by Kohler – the name behind the first “modern bathtub” (the first to feature feet and enamel coating) – the hotel pairs functional architecture with views that do all the heavy lifting: rolling greens, wide beaches and the North Sea stretching out like a sheet of silver.
Inside, the mood softens. Dark woods, plush carpets and soft tweeds give the place an old-school warmth, while panelling and black-and-white golf photography nod to decades of history. It’s a big hotel – the sort you can easily lose your bearings in – but it never feels impersonal. Bars and restaurants spill across the upper floors, the much-loved Jigger Inn pub sits tucked to one side, and cosy corners invite you to settle in with a book, a whisky, or both.
And then there’s the newly renovated Kohler Waters Spa, the part of the hotel that feels like a new chapter. Fresh from a multi-million-pound facelift, it features a snow room, plunge pool, sauna and the UK’s only Espuro Experience, where clouds of softly scented foam pour from the ceiling of a converted steam room. Add sunrise yoga in the glass conservatory and cold-water dips on Castle Sands Beach, and the hotel’s wellness credentials start to rival its golfing ones.
The Vibe
For all its size, the Old Course Hotel has a surprisingly homely vibe. Yes, there’s a touch of corporate polish to the layout – long corridors, generous lobby spaces, everything running like clockwork – but it’s softened by plenty of character and charm. The views help. Glimpses of the 17th fairway seem to appear everywhere, and natural light follows you from room to room. But it’s the staff who really shape the feel of the place; warm, attentive and often greeting you with that soft Scottish lilt that immediately puts you at ease.
The Rooms
Across 175 bedrooms and 35 suites, the Old Course Hotel keeps things classic and comfortable. Rooms are spacious with generous beds, soft lighting and plenty of room to unwind after a day on the coast or exploring the town. My room on the second floor overlooked the action on the courses (ideal for a bit of people-watching) and came with thoughtful daily touches including refreshed Highland Spring water, shortbread biscuits, coffee and several Kohler amenities.
Bathrooms are particularly impressive, many with double vanities and lots of space to get ready, plus robes and slippers you can wander to and from the spa in. Suites offer even more room to stretch out, with those facing the Fife coastline delivering the most striking views.
The Food + Drink
Dining is a real highlight, led by executive head chef Craig Winsborough (formerly of Gleneagles). The three-rosette Road Hole Restaurant sits on the fourth floor and pairs relaxed fine dining with panoramic views across the course. The focus is firmly on Scottish produce, much of it prepared in the open kitchen. Standout dishes include the lobster ravioli and Scotch beef fillet, both generously portioned and full of flavour. The neighbouring Road Hole Bar keeps the atmosphere humming into the evening with live music and more than 250 whiskies on offer.
Breakfast is served in the same space, though the breakfast-in-bed option is an easy win: a £5 tray charge for a generous spread and a slower start to the day. For a more modern setting, the Swilcan Loft – the rooftop seafood bar and chop house – serves surf-and-turf with views that sweep over West Sands beach. More casual choices come via the Jigger Inn next door, a whitewashed pub with outdoor decking ideal for watching golfers drift past, and Hams Hame for simple, family-friendly dishes.
During the day, the Spa Café keeps things lighter with salads, broths, sandwiches and fresh juices. The avocado and kale salad (I added prawns) was a personal favourite – fresh, satisfying and good enough that I’ve already recreated it at home.
The Spa
The Kohler Waters Spa is the part of the hotel that genuinely surprises you. After winding through long, carpeted corridors, you step into a space that feels far more design-led than expected. Curved walls, earthy tones, fur throws and the soft flicker of a fire provide a warm welcome. Even the changing rooms set the tone: Dyson hair tools lined up at each station, Bamford products ready to be slathered on and ultra-soft robes and sliders tucked neatly into each locker.
The new thermal suite is where things get interesting. This Scottish take on contrast therapy leans into coorie: Scottish for snuggle or cosy and reflecting that instinctive pull towards warmth, comfort and sanctuary after the cold. There’s a snow cabin with real snow, a cold plunge that steals your breath in the best way and a hydrotherapy pool where you can thaw out again under warm jets. The UK’s first Espuro experience runs three times a day, filling a steam room with clouds of essential-oil-scented foam. You smooth it over your skin like a body treatment for silky soft limbs.
With 13 treatment rooms, there’s no shortage of options. I tried an Omorovicza Vitamin C facial – a glow-boosting treatment blending gentle exfoliation with the brand’s signature Hungarian massage. I left with brighter skin and that blissful, floaty post-treatment feeling. Other options range from the Mineral-Rich HydraFacial to deeply relaxing hot stone massages using warm basalt stones. The menu also includes tailored treatments for pregnancy, menopause and cancer care, making the spa feel genuinely inclusive.
Wellness stretches beyond the treatment rooms. Sunrise yoga in the glass conservatory begins slowly as the sky turns pink behind the windows, while the floating sound bath (held in the warm indoor pool) blends breathwork and sound frequencies for an almost meditative drift. You can also venture beyond the spa with the hotel’s guided cold-water swim at Castle Sands – part of its growing wellness programme. Staff are trained by Olympic open-water swimmer Keri-Anne Payne to lead the dip safely, and cold-water advocate Anna Deacon helps shape the retreat calendar. Wrapped in blankets with tea and shortbread afterwards, it’s easy to see why the spa roots itself in Scotland’s rhythm of cold, warmth and comfort.
The Little Extras
For guests seeking privacy (and more space), Hamilton Grand – a collection of stylish two-bedroom residences overlooking the 18th hole and West Sands beach – offers apartment-style living with butler support and access to the hotel’s restaurants, spa and fitness facilities. And when you want to step back from the hum of golfers and guests, the main hotel’s library is an easy detour – a quiet nook where you can sink into an armchair with a good book or flip through the hotel’s own Birdie magazine. Back in your room, a thoughtful ‘wee home comforts’ booklet allows guests to borrow yoga mats, dry robes for a bracing North Sea swim, a selection of books and even electrolytes post-spa – all complimentary.
The To-Do List
Part of the charm of staying here is how close you are to St Andrews. Spend a morning wandering into town (ten minutes on foot) where cobbled lanes, sandstone terraces and tucked-away independents give the place its storybook feel. Cottage Kitchen is worth seeking out for coffee and homemade soup, especially on a chilly day. From there, it’s an easy stroll to the cathedral ruins or the clifftop castle, both offering impressive views of the coastline.
If you prefer to stay closer to the hotel, follow the path towards West Sands Beach, best reached in the late afternoon when the light turns soft. It’s also the perfect excuse to build an appetite before dinner at the Road Hole Restaurant, where generous plates and five-star service make it the obvious choice for a slow, lingering evening.
For those planning ahead, the hotel launches its Step into Summer wellness retreat on the 2nd of May 2026, hosted by Anna Deacon with special guest Louise Minchin. Prices start from £385 per person, including a one-night stay, contrast-therapy sessions, yoga, meditation, a spa treatment and all meals. If you live locally, the Exhale Signature Spa Day is a great entry point. Enjoy a 25-minute facial and 25-minute massage, followed by full use of the thermal suite and lunch in the Spa Café (£155 per person).
All image credit: Old Course Hotel
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