A whitewashed Cape Dutch farmstead beckoning from beneath the brooding Simonsberg Mountains, Babylonstoren is where heritage meets haute design in South Africa’s vine-striped Winelands.
Set on 200 hectares of working land, this 17th-century estate has been thoughtfully reimagined by former ELLE Deco editor Karen Roos and husband Koos Bekker as a retreat where centuries-old buildings house designer furniture and immaculate gardens supply restaurants with ingredients harvested moments before they reach your plate.
Just an hour’s drive from Cape Town, Babylonstoren attracts those seeking an earthy agricultural experience without sacrificing creature comforts. The property has quickly become a regional landmark, with both international visitors and locals drawn to its architectural elements and horticultural focus. Days here revolve around nature’s bounty and the property’s rhythms – collecting eggs, harvesting vegetables, pressing olives and tasting wines made from grapes grown on the surrounding slopes.
The Vibe
“Farmer chic” captures Babylonstoren’s carefully cultivated aesthetic – meticulously preserved Dutch Colonial architecture juxtaposed with clean-lined modern additions. Gabled cottages cluster around a historic farmyard, while interiors showcase statement pieces by Philippe Starck and the Bouroullec brothers alongside mounted botanicals and weathered leather-bound books.
The property’s eight-acre formal grounds are its beating heart. Divided into 15 sections by French architect Patrice Taravella, geometric parterres of heirloom vegetables sit adjacent to espaliered quince trees, berry tunnels and fragrant herb beds linked by gravel pathways and gurgling irrigation channels. Guests pluck sun-warmed figs straight from branches or recline on the chamomile lawn as gardeners quietly snip nearby.
Despite commanding some of the Cape’s steepest room rates, there’s a refreshing lack of pretension – families chat with gardeners while children scamper the grounds, treating the property as their personal playground. The rhythm here follows nature’s cues, with afternoon light warming the vineyards as the Simonsberg turns from grey to purple in the fading day.
The Rooms
Accommodation comes in various configurations, each showing the careful hand of a design editor. Garden Cottages near the central core showcase thick walls, stable doors that open in sections and wood-burning fireplaces that speak to their 18th-century origins. Inside, interiors favour organic textures in a restrained palette: Oregon-pine floors, freshly laundered linens on four-poster beds and botanical specimens mounted between panes.
Fynbos Cottages
For those seeking extra privacy, the Fynbos Cottages perched above the dam provide an architectural surprise – behind their traditional gabled façades sits a sleek glass-box extension housing a kitchenette or lounge with soaring ceiling heights that flood the space with mountain views. Wake to vineyard vistas through floor-to-ceiling windows before preparing coffee with dairy from on-site herds in your kitchen as mist rises off the vines.
The Farmhouse
The Farmhouse suites present a more generous footprint, featuring beamed ceilings, original carved beds, and deep marble baths perfect for lengthy soaks. Families can take over the five-bedroom Fynbos Family House, complete with a walled courtyard and private plunge pool. Considerate amenities abound – your minibar stocked with olive oil and bottles produced onsite, homemade soap and a basket of just-picked produce delivered on request.
The Food + Drink
At Babylonstoren, “farm-to-table” describes a journey from soil to plate in just minutes. The flagship restaurant Babel, set in a converted cow shed with glass partitions flooding the space with light, operates on executive chef Schalk Vlok’s direct “pick, clean and serve” philosophy.
Morning dining here is worth the journey alone – tables laden with just-picked berries, house-churned yoghurts, still-warm mosbolletjies (a Cape Dutch grape-must bread with an addictive aniseed undertone), and vibrant fruit juices showcasing the garden’s seasonal bounty. Dinner at Babel presents creative combinations with artful presentation; think chilled miso broth with young vegetables or smoked local trout accompanied by golden beetroot and Cape gooseberry pesto, scattered with nasturtium petals.
For a more relaxed meal, the Greenhouse delivers al fresco dining under ancient oak trees at the perimeter. Wooden crates arrive bearing sourdough from the wood-fired oven alongside regional cheeses and preserves, perhaps with a jar of chilled gazpacho made from heritage tomato varieties. The herb patch provides ingredients for refreshing drinks that change with the seasons.
The vineyard produces notable bottles from its Simonsberg-nestled slopes – Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz and the Cape’s signature Pinotage among them. Their pale, bone-dry rosé has gained international acclaim as the official wine of London’s Chelsea Flower Show, while sessions in the modern winery building include the flagship Nebuchadnezzar blend, poured by staff eager to discuss their craft.
The Little Extras
The spa sits within a verdant bamboo grove with wooden walkways traversing trickling water channels. Treatment rooms combine glass and natural materials, while therapies blend local and international influences; the signature bamboo massage using fynbos-infused oils or the hammam ritual finished with honey from onsite hives is a winner. A 2023 expansion added an indoor vitality pool, salt room, and sauna that complement the original outdoor pool with its dragonfly-skimmed surface.
Sustainability isn’t just a gesture, but integral to operations. The property operates without chemical pesticides, employs a greywater recycling system that uses water up to three times, has installed substantial solar capacity, and maintains beehives and insect hotels. Day visitor entrance fees contribute to a trust that funds education for staff children – conscious luxury without the virtue signalling.
Considerate touches include bicycles stationed outside each cottage for impromptu vineyard explorations, rubber boots and umbrellas for wandering in any weather, and a shop offering seasonal harvests, house-made preserves and soaps distilled from cultivated herbs.
The To-Do List
Begin with a guided stroll led by one of the horticulturists, who’ll explain the philosophy behind Babylonstoren’s immaculate grounds while identifying rare plant specimens. Follow this with a cellar session that includes a visit to The Story of Wine Museum – the first of its kind in Africa.
Early risers shouldn’t miss the water buffalo expedition – a pre-dawn excursion to meet the gentle giants. Watch the milking ritual before sampling just-made mozzarella and ricotta from their rich milk. The outing concludes with dining at Babel featuring buffalo milk yoghurt and cheeses that taste nothing like conventional dairy.
Olive enthusiasts should book the pressing demonstration, where you’ll follow olives from tree to bottle and learn how grape must transforms into aged balsamic in the cellar. The session ends with crafting your own custom blend to take home. Be sure to keep it well away from silk garments when packing.
As the day cools, the mountain sundowner drive takes guests up the Simonsberg slopes in an open safari vehicle. The excursion pauses at a vantage point with views across the Winelands to distant Table Mountain, accompanied by glasses of wine and the evening chorus of cicadas.
For those interested in traditional lifeways, the Soetmelksvlei heritage visit explores a restored neighbouring farmstead. Try your hand at butter-making, watch grain being milled by waterpower and join fellow guests for lunch served beneath spreading branches.
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All images: Babylonstoren
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