Nowhere has influenced Dame Zandra Rhodes quite as much as India. After a trip back to the capital of Rajasthan last month, this is her guide to Jaipur.
If we’re lucky, we might find a place that makes us feel a little more like ourselves – somewhere that brings out the best in us, personally or professionally. For Rhodes, that destination is India. Having first visited in 1981 as part of the Festival of India, a celebration of the country’s arts and crafts, she has returned countless times. Drawn to its colour, culture and sights, the legendary designer has also staged sari shows in Mumbai and Delhi and at one time ran a beading studio in Chennai. Its heritage and craftsmanship has inspired multiple Rhodes fashion collections, in which she combined traditional Indian practices with her own, singular design sensibility.
Zandra Rhodes in Jaipur in January
Perhaps it comes as no surprise given her signature hair colour that one of her favourite and most-visited destinations in India is Jaipur, also known as the ‘Pink City’. Last month, she hosted a week-long workshop there, where – alongside Kalamkari artists of the Dwaraka Women’s Collective – she guided participants in how to build a library of motifs to be transferred onto fabric through the ancient art of Kalamkari, a painstaking 23-step process that involves using handcrafted bamboo pens and raw materials to create elaborate paintings.
“Jaipur, and the state of Rajasthan where it is located, is a hub of India’s crafts and makers industry and you can really feel this through every corner of the city,” says Rhodes. “From textiles, jewellers and tailors to carpenters and potters, there is creativity and talent pouring from the seams here. It really is so special.”
Here, she shares her guide to Jaipur. Whether you’re looking for the most unmissable culture spots, the IYKYK place for cheese naan, or the rooftop bar with the very best views, this is the Pink City as seen through an insider’s eyes.
The best time of year to visit is…
January or February – it isn’t too hot or cold. You need a jacket for the evening and during the day, it’s a glorious 20-25°C.
How long should we stay to see it properly?
Ten days if you really want to get a feel for the city.
Which essential items should we pack?
Bug spray, sketchbooks, colourful jewels, a modest shawl for draping around you, especially when visiting the temples and religious sites. I always dress respectfully and cover my legs, arms and shoulders.
Our first pitstop should be…
The wonderful Palace of The Winds, a five-storey building that dates back to 1799. It was first used by the royal women of Jaipur who would perch on the jharokhas and look out of the small windows. It’s a stunning piece of architecture, and made in the pink sandstone that gave the city its name.
Your favourite hotel to check in at is…
SABA Haveli – a quaint and traditional guest-house with spacious rooms, a great breakfast and a fabulous roof terrace.
Jaipur is packed full of culture spots – which are your favourites?
Jantar Mantar to see the incredible centuries-old sun dial and sculptures inspired by astrology. It was built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh, who founded Jaipur in the 1700s. The main structure works as a sun dial and tells the time with a precision of two seconds.
Which tourist attraction is actually worth doing?
Go up to the Amber Fort in the late afternoon to watch the sunset. It’s truly breathtaking. There’s the dazzling Mirror Palace in the grounds which is adorned with thousands of tiny, hand-cut, imported mirrors and glass.
What are your favourite stores?
- PDKF store in the City Palace for beautiful patchwork textiles. All proceeds go to local women’s charities.
- Anokhi in the C-Scheme area has fantastic traditional textile prints on its range of clothing and homeware. There’s also a gorgeous cafe with lots of fresh organic food.
- Rajasthan Fabrics & Arts and Indian Art House are treasure troves of locally sourced antique finds, such as mirrored beadwork fabrics, clay pots and ‘Cosmic Egg’ artworks. I could get lost in there for hours.
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Rhodes in Jaipur in the 80s
Are there any markets we should try?
Kahdi Mela, an annual makers market from all regions of India showcasing fabrics, garments, footwear, bags and food. It’s located near the Mahatma Gandhi Museum and usually takes place in January.
What would be your dream itinerary?
I would start with an early morning masala chai at Tattoo Cafe, which has fantastic views of the Palace of The Winds. I’d then walk to Swarga Suli tower with a pitstop to sketch the beautiful Flame Vines that I see along the way. I’d slowly climb the 264 steps of Swarga Suli for the panoramic vistas of the city, before lunch at Jaipur Modern with a quick peruse in their fantastic gift shop afterwards. My afternoon would be spent at the City Palace taking in the breathtaking architecture of the royal residence. I’d round my day off in The Johri’s pink dining room eating their fantastic small plates of truffle kulcha. Delicious.
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What’s the public transport like in Jaipur? Or can we walk everywhere?
There is a metro, but I don’t know how much it’s used. I prefer an autorickshaw – a motorised version of pulled or cycle rickshaws – perfect for zipping around and seeing the city. I always explore the area I’m staying in on foot; you never know where you will end up – last time I ended up on a roof dancing with a wonderful family to celebrate the mid-winter harvest festival Makar Sankranti.
Which is your favourite restaurant and why?
Cinnamon at the Taj Jai Mahal Palace – the menu is focused on traditional North Indian cuisine and the cheese naan is to die for.
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What’s the one thing we should know about Jaipur to help us on our travels?
Prepare for a sensory overload of sights, sounds and smells. For an optimum experience, visit on one of India’s many public holidays where you can embrace the colours and joy in all its glory. There’s nothing like it.
Are there any experiences we should definitely do?
Head to the beating heart of the city, the Govind Dev Ji Temple on prayer morning and embrace the beautiful Hindu culture and welcoming, ecstatic and loving atmosphere.
Rhodes sketching in Jaipur in 1987
How safe is it for women? Are there any areas we should avoid?
I’ve never felt unsafe and there’s no ‘no-go’ areas, but I wouldn’t walk alone at night as a woman. If you do, ensure you have a reputable driver to take you around.
The one place only locals know about…
Samrat Chai, one of the last coal-fired tea street vendors in the city.
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For the best views head to…
The rooftop at Saba Haveli – I was there recently on Makar Sankranti, the kite-flying festival, and the 360° views of local rooftops and the local celebrations is special. Myself and my dear friend Andrew Logan sat up on the roof and sketched the views.
My go-to bar is…
Samode Haveli, which has a fantastic bar by the pool.
The drink to order at the bar is…
A Nimbu Soda. I don’t drink and it’s the perfect non-alcoholic cocktail, infused with lime juice, roasted cumin powder and honey or sugar.
How should we spend the final day of our trip?
Explore Johri Bazar, Tripolia Bazar, and Chameli Market for a last-minute shopping fix.
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If we buy one keepsake to take home, what should it be?
A colourful bangle made of a natural resin called lac from any of the street vendors in Maniharon Ka Rasta. They’re made and resized in-front of you.
In one word Jaipur is…
Mesmerising.
Is there a word or phrase that we need to know?
Khamma Ghani is a polite way to say hello.
Lead image: Zandra Rhodes in Jaipur in the 1980s
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Any Questions or Tips to add?