Growing up in 90’s Northern Ireland, skiing was not on the cards. If you’ve watched Derry Girls, you have a pretty accurate picture of the time and place of my teenage years (right down to the bottle green uniform). I once tentatively raised the question of a school ski trip and was swiftly told to ‘catch yourself on’.
Fast forward a few decades, life finds me living in France with a ski-loving husband and two French born bébés. And what blows my mind is how the French have democratised skiing, it’s not an elite sport reserved only for the mega rich. Liberté, Égalité, Le Ski. It’s a right. And they’ve set up a national infrastructure of ski schools (ESF) to ensure that world class coaching at reasonable prices is accessible from tiny tots to adults.
2026 is a big year as it’s the first time our family of four can hit the slopes together. My son turned three in January and so was eligible for Piou Piou, ESF’s cutely named ski school, my daughter at the ripe old age of five, like many kids in France, is well into her skiing career and this will be her third season en-piste.
No longer pregnant or holding a baby, I have run out of excuses that absent me from the slopes. My kids are rapidly progressing, and I don’t want to be left behind. My mission is to learn the basic skills so I can join my little ones on the beginner slopes or even venture onto a green run.
But there’s two things:
- I am terrified.
- I am in my 40s, with a body that crashed out of post-partum and into the chaos of perimenopause. Do I have the strength, balance and mobility it takes or am I headed for the ER room?
Let’s find out, shall we?
Location, Location, Location
First up where to go and how to get there. With over 300 ski resorts France plays host to a third of the world’s slopes. We wanted somewhere with good facilities for learners and lots to do off-piste too (mama needs a spa day). And so, we headed to Méribel at the heart of the world-famous Trois Vallées. This impossibly-pretty-Alpine resort was founded in 1938 by a Scotsman and British Colonel, Peter Lindsay, and is still popular with British and French families. From a design point of view, what makes Méribel so special is its insistence on safeguarding traditional architecture. Buildings must be crafted in line with Savoyard chalet style and materials. You won’t find any high-rise concrete megaliths here. Méribel is Christmas card, picture perfect.
Learning to ski as an adult
Once installed in our cozy apartment, reality began to creep in. Tomorrow I would be clicking into skis. I could feel the panic rising. Several years ago, pre-kids, I had one lesson which ended with me hurtling down a slope and an instructor screaming, “OPEN YOUR LEGS, REBECCA!” Honestly, it made Bridget Jones look like an Olympian.
If you’re not familiar with skiing, there’s a lot that can feel alien. The gear, the impossibly tight boots, clanking around carrying poles and skis without decapitating a passer-by, and don’t get me started on getting on and off a ski lift. So, give yourself some grace. You’re learning something new, and as an adult, chances are, you might not have done that in a while.
My ESF ski instructor was Philippe Lau, a world-champion skier. No pressure. Day one we start with the basics, how to get in and out of skis, ‘duckwalking’ to move uphill, and then onto the ‘tapis magique’, the magic carpet travelator. This will be your first test of balance. Everything in your body will tell you to lean back, but my top tip for survival is lean forward and press your shins against your boots, that’s why they are so tight, they are your stable foundation. Phil begins with teaching me how to ‘pizza’ or snowplough, essentially an emergency stop. Despite my nerves, I glimpse it. The thrill of gliding for just a few seconds. It’s a rush. After 2.5 hours, we’ve accomplished more than I thought possible in a week, and crucially, I had fun and feel a little more confident.
By day two we are off the practice slope and onto a green run. I don’t care how gentle your first green run is, it will feel like you are about to throw yourself off Mont Blanc. Today’s lesson is turning. And it turns out; I can do this! One problem. I can do it in one direction and one direction only. So, as long as any run I navigate is in fact circular, then I’ll be fine.
By the end of our time together I can say that practice may not make perfect, but it does make progress. I leave content in the knowledge that I have overcome fear. There’s a long way to go to achieve proficiency, but we’re out of the starting blocks.
For anyone thinking of taking to skis as an adult. You can do it, but make sure to book lessons with an expert, (your well-meaning partner or friend are not going to cut it) and crucially, prepare your body. You are going to move muscles and joints in ways they are not tested in everyday life and certainly not in a desk job. Put some time into getting ski fit with weighted squats, curtsy lunges, gentle hip mobility and wall sits, (YouTube has lots of helpful exercises you can do at home). Warm up and stretch before hitting the slopes and listen to your body. And remember: It’s ok to suck at something new. That’s my mantra for 2026.
Après Ski: Where to eat, spa and relax in Méribel
My skiing career may never take off but it doesn’t mean I can’t thoroughly enjoy a snow holiday. Méribel has plenty to offer if you want to get your kicks off-piste.
On Méribel’s main street is La Chaudanne, a four-star hotel where we headed for dinner at its bistrot restaurant Le 80. If cozy chalet luxe is your vibe for après-ski, this is the place. The service is warm and welcoming and the fondu is fabuleux.
Hôtel Le Coucou, Méribel
Few places in the world offer a more spectacular setting than Le Coucou Méribel. I visited the five-star retreat for a massage and to ease away aches and pains in the spa. Swimming in the heated outdoor pool surrounded by the snowy Alps, was total bliss. You can reserve a day pass or spa treatment as a non-hotel guest. Lunch is served on the Beefbar terrace, surrounded by majestic Alpine peaks. Le Coucou is part of Maisons Pariente, a family-owned group of luxury hotels. Each has a distinct, boutique character. Thoughtful touches like a kids’ club, and direct ski in/ski out access (plus an impossibly stylish ski boutique), make a vacation here effortless. The hotel’s design has a strong sustainable focus and feels immediately like a home away from home. A must visit when in Méribel.
Four Tips for Family Ski Trips
If you are thinking of planning a family ski holiday, here are my top tips:
Base yourself near to an ESF ski school.
75% of a skiing holiday with small children is hauling them in and out of endless layers, wedging them into ski boots then tottering around on icy surfaces with a creature that has the stability of baby Bambi. Make your life as easy as possible and base yourself near to their Piou Piou or ESF drop off points. We stayed at Méribel-Mottaret Pierre et Vacances, self-catering accommodation which was waddling distance to ski school, and had ski hire, shops and restaurants adjacent. With a glorious view of the slopes, it was perfect for a chocolat chaud on the balcony.
Snacks, snacks, snacks
If you take nothing else away from this, take this: snacks. Pop a ‘compote’ fruit purée in their hood for Piou Piou, or some oaty bars in their pockets. Skiing makes you hungry and kids especially so. The good news is you can eat your body weight in tartiflette and burn it off the next day. Hoorah!
Pre-Loved is your friend
The cost of a ski holiday can quickly rack up. Kids may be too big for their gear next season so do your wallet and the planet a favour: buy preloved (we found some great bargains on Vinted) and grab those hand-me-downs from friends and family.
Keep it fun
Cage that inner tiger parent. Skiing should be fun. It’s not the Olympic qualifiers. Don’t compare abilities. When little legs get tired (and yours too for that matter) it’s time to stop.
Need to Know
Getting there
On our way to Méribel by car from our home in Southern France, the Eurostar Ski Train from London whizzed past. Once in Méribel you can hire all the ski gear you need (Sport Boutique is a convenient central location), so the train is a climate friendly way to get to the heart of the Alps without the faff. You can also fly to Lyon, Grenoble or Geneva (Switzerland) and then it’s about a two-hour drive or transfer.
Where to stay
- Self-catering: Pierre & Vacances (easy, practical, great for groups and longer stays)
- Luxury hotels: Le Coucou Méribel, La Chaudanne
Ski lessons
- ESF (École du Ski Français): dependable instructors for all levels, from first-timers to confident cruisers.
Off-slope fun for families
- Visit Parc Olympique: a swimming pool, ice rink, and climbing wall.
- Go Snowshoeing with Raquett’Evasion: a brilliant way to explore the mountains without skis. Track wildlife with a local guide, learn about the landscape, and refuel mid-walk with a delicious chocolate fondue break. No ski ability needed.
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Any Questions or Tips to add?