Previously calling Mumbai home, CF’s managing editor Katie Silcox reflects on three years of celebrating Holi in India – including some of the mistakes she made, as well as the tips she learned on how to make the most of it in a safe and fun environment.
It’s mid-afternoon, I’m standing on Colaba Causeway in Mumbai, and I’m fairly sure I have a mouth full of lead. Lead-based paint, to be specific.
Every-colour-under-the-rainbow-mixed-into-one-blurry-black-mess lead paint, to be extra specific.
From a balcony overhanging the Causeway three floors above, young boys spray me with water straight-from-the-hose, giggling at my surprise. I probably let out a little scream when the ice-cold water hit me like a jet but, honestly, I wouldn’t know – I was too focused on facing the fact that this paint in my mouth (that *probably* wasn’t lead-based after all) might lead to my untimely death. Cause of death: trying to have fun during Holi in India.
But I’m painting a bad picture here. At the time I’d just moved to India, and this was the first time I’d ever celebrated Holi in India (or anywhere). I had no idea what I was doing. Yet, despite the paint in my mouth and my subsequent panic, it was fun! As an India novice at the time, I wasn’t really sure where or how to join in with the Holi celebrations that take over the country – I just knew that I wanted to. So, in an act of bravery (or was it stupidity? possibly both?) I’d taken myself for a solo walk along the street, initially dipping, ducking and diving behind walls/food carts/anything else I could find to avoid total strangers coming at me, fists full of colour, smashing it into my face. And hair. And hands. And eyes. And, yes, into my mouth too.
As the day went on, I got a little braver, gathered my fighting spirit, bought a few bags of the powdered colour from a stall on the street, and started ‘playing Holi’ too. Admittedly, the small paint splatters I gave to strangers were more like a little touch of colour on their arms rather than the full on face-plants of colour I was receiving back, but it was a start. And I vowed to do better the following year.
By the time the next Holi came around, I understood a lot more about India and, importantly, I’d also made friends – friends who were always happy and patient enough to answer my four million questions about anything and everything related to India: Can I eat the street food? (Mixed responses). Is it Mumbai or Bombay? (Depends who you speak to). Does the monsoon rain ever stop? (No). Where’s the best place to celebrate Holi in Mumbai?
The answer to this last question was a resounding: Never. On. The. Street. My born-and-bred Mumbaikar friends were absolutely horrified that I’d even left my house on foot during the previous years’ Holi celebrations. Instead, they suggested, I should book an organised Holi event next year, or better still join them at a private event – both of which take place across the city in member-only clubs, hotel spaces, outdoor exhibition centres, and sports arenas. Depending on which event you choose, initiatives that make the day that little bit more comfortable and enjoyable might include: coloured powders made from natural ingredients like turmeric, flower petal and beetroot, designed to be both skin and eco-friendly; sunglasses handed out at the gate to avoid getting the colour in your eyes; ditto scarfs for the hair; AC rooms (the holy grail); smoke-and-alcohol-free venues; and, in some cases, quite the opposite – a fully-stocked, all-you-can-drink bar (the jury is out on whether this makes the day more safe – probably not – but it for sure makes it more fun!).
At these organised events, I vibed to DJ-led beats that were broadcast live-on-air by the local radio station. I attempted Bollywood-style dancing to songs like Chammak Challo (no, I don’t wanna be your छम्मक-छल्लो, thank you very much) and Balam Pichkari (I still love this song, even 13 years later!). And best of all, I truly enjoyed the colourful and colour-fun day without fear for my face, eyes, or anything else. Many years later, these special Holi celebrations remain some of my most precious memories from my time living in India.
Someone far better educated in the Hindu religion could tell you more about exactly why Holi exists, although the legends and stories may vary depending on who you ask. You can see some examples here.
What I can tell you is that this is a celebration worth seeking out if you’re in India at the right time of year (it usually falls during March). To be honest it’s probably worth timing at least one trip around it too. Holi Hai!
Some of the best holi celebrations in Mumbai this year include:
- Holi by the Beach at JW Marriott Juhu, 3 March 2026, from 11am
- Holi at The Bay, Bayview Lawns, 3 March 2026, from 9am
- Holi Hungama by the Beach at the Sea Princess Hotel, 3 March 2026, from 10am
- Holi Color Fusion, Dadar Parsee Colony, 3 March 2026, from 10am
- Dunk Fest, JVPD Ground, Juhu, 3 March 2026, from 9am
- The Holi Playground at Bar Bank, Juhu, 3 March 2026, from 10am
- Beachside Holi at The Beach House, 3 March 2026, from 9am
My top tips for Holi in India:
- Wrap your hair in a scarf to avoid an unintentional (and likely very bad) new hair colour
- Apply oil or vaseline to your skin to avoid stains
- Likewise, nail polish can help protect your nails from staining
- Wear sunglasses to protect your eyes
- Wear old clothes that you don’t mind throwing away once the day has ended
- If you want to really make the most of the colours, wear white to help them show up (but be aware you may also get wet, and white clothes can become see-through, which is always best avoided)
- Be aware that the colours will gather and stain on certain parts of your skin, most likely your hands as well as anywhere the powder sits for long periods of time – for women this might be in your bra
- Book a ticket for an organised Holi event, and look for those that use ‘safe colours’ – this might be presented as ‘natural’, ‘organic’, ‘eco-friendly’ or ‘herbal’. If you’re unsure exactly what that means, or what’s inside the colours, ask
- Make sure your valuables are safe: you might be distracted while you celebrate and/or they might become stained with dye. Sealed, waterproof pouches are your friend
- Avoid drinking the very-popular-at-this-specific-celebration drink called bhang. IYKYK
- Shower the second you get home to maximise any stain removal from skin
- As a last resort you can use fake-tan removal products to help slough off any residue
FAQs about Holi in India:
What is Holi?
Holi is a Hindu festival, also known as the Festival of Colours. It celebrates joy and togetherness, and people throw coloured powders onto each other.
When is Holi celebrated?
The exact day that Holi falls varies each year, but it’s usually in March. In 2026 Holi falls on 3 March 2026.
How is Holi celebrated in India?
The star of the show is the colourful powder (known as gulal) that people throw over each other but you’ll probably also come across dancing, singing, and plenty of food and drink.
How long does Holi last?
The colourful celebration that is most closely associated with Holi lasts for just one day, however the night before might see people burning fires (thought to symbolise the burning of evil). Some regions in India, like Uttar Pradesh, celebrate for longer.
Can tourists participate in Holi?
Yes, tourists are welcomed to join in with Holi celebrations in India.
Is Holi safe?
Generally yes, but it’s best to celebrate at organised events in a group, and to stay aware of your surroundings. Avoid celebrations with chemical colours. Protect your eyes, skin and hair.
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Katie Silcox is Citizen Femme’s managing editor. Originally from the UK, she’s also lived in India, Greece and the UAE and has previously worked across titles including Condé Nast Traveller, GQ and Architectural Digest.
Any Questions or Tips to add?