Here’s why peptide serums deserve a hero slot in your skincare routine (and the best ones to get your hands on).
If you’ve been wondering how to get firmer, smoother, and more resilient skin without relying on harsh actives, let us introduce peptides – the skincare ingredient that can promote skin repair, hydration and collagen production, while still being suitable for all skin types.
Basically, peptide serums are like the silent powerhouses of a good skincare routine, with leading brands like Dr Barbara Sturm, bringing out new and exciting peptide serums recently to meet demand.
Here’s why beauty experts love them so much.
What are peptides?
In the simplest terms, peptides are short chains of amino acids – the building blocks of proteins like collagen, elastin and keratin, which are responsible for keeping skin firm, bouncy and resilient. When applied topically via skincare, peptides work like tiny messengers, sending signals to your skin cells that essentially nudge them to produce more collagen, repair damage, and strengthen the skin barrier.
Best of all, unlike some actives that work by exfoliating your skin or accelerating turnover (which can lead to irritation such as redness or breakouts), peptides work with your skin, not against it. That also makes them suitable for all skin types, even those that struggle with proven anti-agers such as retinoids.
The benefits of peptide serums
The appeal of peptides lies in their versatility. They can help with:
- Firming and smoothing: By encouraging collagen and elastin production, peptides help soften fine lines and improve skin texture
- Barrier support: They strengthen the skin barrier, making skin more resilient and less prone to irritation
- Hydration and repair: Many peptides help the skin retain moisture and recover from environmental stress
How do peptides work exactly?
The first thing you need to remember is that your skin is constantly communicating with itself. More specifically, your skin cells send signals that tell other cells what to do, whether that’s producing collagen, repairing damage, or triggering inflammation. (These signals are super important, for example, when you cut yourself and need skin repair to kick start).
Broadly speaking, peptides in your skincare work by trying to interact with this natural process, mimicking the natural signalling molecules already present in your skin. Most have to do this from the surface of your skin (as peptides are relatively large molecules), although some clever encapsulation techniques do push some peptides a little deeper.
Another thing to bear in mind is that there are different kinds of peptides for different jobs, too:
Signal peptides
These are the most talked-about in skincare. They essentially “tell” your skin to produce more collagen and elastin, which can improve firmness and reduce the appearance of fine lines. As we age, natural signalling slows down, so signal peptides help nudge it back into action.
Carrier peptides
These deliver trace elements (most popularly copper) into the skin, which are essential for wound healing and enzymatic processes involved in collagen production. Think of them as delivery systems with a purpose.
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides
Some peptides work by slowing down the breakdown of collagen. Instead of stimulating new production, they help preserve what you already have, which is great for preventing wrinkles in the first place.
Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides
Often compared – somewhat loosely – to injectables, these peptides aim to soften the appearance of expression lines by limiting the signals that cause muscle contraction. The effect is subtle, but over time they can contribute to smoother-looking skin.
Why are peptide serums trending?
The biggest change in skincare over the past few years has been the pivot towards barrier health, as we increasingly realise how easily the overuse of strong actives can backfire. The industry is also focusing on a preventive approach to ageing, so instead of aggressively targeting wrinkles or dull, flaky skin, the focus is now on preserving collagen, maintaining elasticity, and keeping your skin functioning optimally for longer. Peptides align perfectly with this new approach.
Equally, in a routine that might already include vitamin C in the morning and retinoids at night, peptides are the rare ingredient that don’t complicate things. They work well with other ingredients, are generally non-irritating, and now, due to improvements in formulation techniques, are even more effective. Previously, peptides had been notoriously tricky to formulate, not least because they are relatively large molecules that struggle to penetrate the top layer of the skin. Luckily, modern delivery systems, encapsulation technologies, and multi-peptide blends have made them far more viable in topical skincare.
How quickly can you see results?
Peptides are the skincare equivalent of good habits: quietly effective, but the results they give are often subtle and cumulative. They can be brilliant for improving overall skin ‘bounce’ and quality over time, but if you’re expecting an instant transformation, you’ll likely be underwhelmed. Yet, in a landscape that’s long been dominated by stronger, faster, more reactive ingredients, peptides feel like a positive shift in the right direction. They are less about pushing your skin to its limits and more about supporting it to function at its best. And, that’s exactly what you should be aiming for if you want firmer, smoother, and more resilient skin for the long term.
Just make sure you choose a brand that utilises them to the best of their ability for maximum results. You can find our beauty director’s favourite peptide serums, including Dr Barbara Sturm and Medik8, reviewed below.
The brands doing peptide serums well
With its luxe, science-led formulation that leans into the anti-inflammatory benfits of peptides, this is your ticket to plumper, smoother skin that looks like you've just stepped straight out of a high-tech facial. Our top pick for travel-worn skin and preventative results, this powerful serum is backed by scientific studies too, having been shown to slow down the breakdown of collagen and elastin, leading to a visible reduction in fine lines and a visible firming effect.
Medik8's supercharged peptide serum doesn't just contain one type of peptide, it contains three of the core categories – signal peptides to boost your skin's collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid levels for smoother skin; copper carrier peptides to improve skin texture; and neuro-transmitter peptides to smooth dynamic expression lines. The result: a solution that can diminish expression lines in 10 minutes and deep-set wrinkles in eight weeks!
Want to try a peptide serum that won't break the bank? You can't go wrong with The Ordinary. This lightweight formula combines five skin-firming peptides with amino acids and hyaluronic acid, nourishing your skin so that it looks smoother and more radiant for longer. In great news, you can get results in just a few weeks too.
Your skin will thank you for making this investment in your complexion, especially if your key concern is skin that just feels like it is falling flat of late. The secret: a clever lifting peptide complex that's clinically proven to improve the appearance of wrinkles and skin firmness. Plus, the serum contains growth factors too, which help boost skin repair even further.
If you find yourself too busy for complicated skincare (and many of the CF team agree with you!), this gel serum is the 'lazy girl's hack' to an eviable lit-from-within glow. In fact, we can credit founder Hailey Bieber with making peptides exciting again, whether it is with this fast-absorbing gel or her fan-favourite peptide lip treatments (so your pout can be pampered too).
Inspired by 'Botox' and other wrinkle-targeting injections, this science-backed serum uses neuro-peptides to help you soften the lines around your eyes and forehead without going under the needle. The formula not only contains an advanced peptide complex that targets nine types of expression lines, but also contains skin-smoothing PHAs for some gentle, daily exfoliation.
Powered by argireline, a peptide that has been called 'Botox in a bottle', what we particularly love about this serum is how nourishing (as well as results-driven) it is. Alongside the potent peptide it also contains ferulic acid and collagen to hydrate and firm – making it perfect for supercharging your daily moisturising routine.
Becki Murray is Citizen Femme’s Beauty and Wellness Director. As one of the only UK journalists to hold a Distinction-grade diploma in cosmetic science, she combines her unique knowledge with an editor’s eye to help you make smarter choices about beauty, wellbeing, and aesthetics. Becki also heads up CF’s spa guide so you could say she’s an expert in the science of relaxation too…
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Lead image: Dr Barbara Sturm
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