When it comes to a destination as famous and hyped as St Tropez, it pays to have a local guide; step forward Aurelia Stouls of cult Parisian leather brand Stouls, whose family have had a house there for decades.
The French Riviera seaside town is famous for its glamorous clientele, ostentatious yachts and luxury hotels that have made it the perfect location for season four of The White Lotus, but there’s another side that is quieter, more authentic and charming. Aurelia first started visiting St Tropez as a little girl, before her parents built a property in the neighbouring woodland. When they died, she restored it, keeping its original spirit while adding her own personality. It fast became her creative enclave, and for the past 10 years, the place where she designs her collections. “Once the moodboards, colours, and ideas begin to take shape, I retreat there to develop everything,” she says. “It’s peaceful, almost blissful. It’s my haven – a place where I can welcome my son and his friends, as well as my own friends and family.”
Aurelia Stouls by Alexandra Utzmann
Aurelia has watched as St Tropez has changed from the low-key fishing village she knew as a child to the glittering haunt of the jet-set. “I keep my own rituals and try to avoid the changes that don’t resonate with me,” she says. “I love having a drink at sunset on the balcony of Le Sube, overlooking the port, surrounded by the habitués. I still enjoy long lunches at Les Salins. In winter, around Christmas, it’s magical – the light is incredible and you can even swim if you feel brave enough, walking along the coast from Les Salins to the Baie des Canoubiers.”
Including the best hotels and oceanfront bars to the lesser-known beaches and markets, this is Aurelia’s insider guide to St Tropez.
Tell us about your personal connection to St Tropez…
I’ve been going since I was a little girl. This was back in the 70s, when my parents loved to party. We spent endless days on the beach, and when evening came, it was time for them to go dancing. My brother and I stayed at the hotel with room service, while our parents danced the night away. It was such a joyful, spontaneous time.
When I became a teenager, we started going to the famous Club 55, hosted by its owners the de Colmont family. At the time, it felt like an elegant family restaurant with a very relaxed spirit. Today, it serves nearly a thousand guests a day during the high season, so getting a table now definitely requires a reservation.
The best time of year to visit is…
It really depends on what you’re looking for. Personally, I go quite often – about a week each month in spring, early summer, and again in September. Christmas can also be wonderful; the weather is often surprisingly beautiful.
How long should we stay to see it properly?
At least three nights and days to get a real taste of the town… or a whole month if you want to truly discover the entire area, which is absolutely breathtaking.
Which essential items should we pack?
A pair of Rondini leather sandals (the oldest sandal-maker in St Tropez) or classic espadrilles, a light cotton dress from Pero (my favourite Indian brand; the devil is in the detail), and a pair of denim shorts with a bohemian Thierry Colson blouse to throw on for the beach. My Stouls backless Cherry top is great for day and night, with trousers or a skirt. For the evening, the perfect sexy dress and a pair of high heels (I’m crazy for Pierre Hardy). You’ll also need a hat, sunglasses (mine are by Mykita), and, very importantly, SPF 50 sunscreen. Don’t forget a light cashmere shawl for cooler evenings, and – if possible – a motorcycle to avoid the traffic.
Where should we stay?
In the village itself, Byblos is perfect if you enjoy a bit of glamour and want easy access to the nightclub. It’s an iconic hotel in St Tropez, with a stunning swimming pool and legendary history. I also like Le Yaca for chic, understated luxury and privacy. I love its beautiful courtyard tucked away at the top of the village. Outside the village, try La Tartane, on the Route des Salins, a chic, family-friendly hotel with a relaxed, elegant vibe.
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Which are your favourite restaurants?
Les Salins, right on the water, for lunch. I also love the famous fish restaurant, Chez Camille. There are a few signature dishes of the region worth trying while you’re there: la bouillabaisse, a fish stew from Marseille; nougat, which has been made in St Tropez since the 17th century; l’anchoïage with fennel, a Provençal dip or sauce made from anchovies, garlic, and olive oil; la soupe au pistou, a soup of summer vegetables; and, finally, pissaladière, a pizza-tart hybrid pizza or tart baked in sweet onions and covered with anchovies and olives.
Which are your favourite bars and why?
- Le Sube, a bar on the first floor overlooking the harbour. It’s a wonderful place to sit and watch the life of the port go by. Locals love its relaxed atmosphere.
- Ermitage at night is perfect for a drink, it’s lively and festive.
- And of course Sénéquier, which first opened in 1930 – it’s traditional and famed for its red tables, and funny show-off clientele.
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Where should we go for the best views of St Tropez?
The Citadelle, a 17th-century fortress perched at the top of the village, reached through the small winding streets, offers one of the most beautiful views over St Tropez. The view from Hôtel La Ponche, just behind the port, is another favourite – a hidden corner tucked away in the village’s narrow pedestrian streets.
Are there any markets we should try?
I love the last weekend of November, when all the stores have sales on the season’s leftovers – it’s called La Grande Braderie. For local treats, I always recommend the nougat from Sénéquier, and the tarte Tropézienne from the bakery Aux Deux Frères on Rue Gambetta – absolute classics that you simply must try. I adore the daily morning fish market every morning, just behind Sénéquier on the port. It’s vibrant, fresh, and a perfect way to feel the rhythm of St Tropez life. I’d also recommend the flea market in Cogolin, a 10-kilometre drive away, which takes place every Sunday morning, all year round. You can find hidden gems there at every price.
Aurelia at the Cogolin flea market
Are there any lesser-known beaches that we should visit and why?
I’ll keep a few secrets to myself, if you don’t mind, but I love Plage des Graniers, just behind St Tropez village. The little restaurant there is fantastic, half trendy, half effortlessly cool. Another favorite is the rocks of L’Escalet, below Ramatuelle. I like to swim there early in the morning, when it’s fresh and quiet, or late in the day as the sun sets. Personally, I’m not a fan of Pampelonne, where all the big beach clubs and restaurants are. It’s too large, too impersonal – it lacks the charm of the smaller, hidden spots.
Which well-known tourist attractions should we avoid?
Unfortunately, the Tuesday and Saturday market after 9am. It becomes extremely crowded and rather difficult to enjoy.
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Is there anywhere near St Tropez that we should visit while we’re there?
- The luxury hotel Lily of the Valley on Gigaro beach, a 15-minute drive from St Tropez, is a beautiful place to visit, particularly for its setting and spectacular views. Its open-air restaurant Le Pepe is great for a relaxed lunch on the beach or a drink at sunset. The atmosphere is simple and very charming.
- Just below the village of Ramatuelle, on the road down to the beaches, you’ll find a vineyard called Fondugues-Pradugues. The site itself is stunning – a lovely spot under the pine trees with a food truck. It’s very relaxed and authentic.
- I would also recommend visiting the medieval village of Grimaud, which is just 20 minutes from St Tropez. Start with breakfast at La Pâtisserie du Château, then visit the beautiful little Romanesque church before wandering through the charming pedestrian streets of the village. Don’t miss the small chapel at the very top, the view is wonderful.
- For lunch or dinner, Le Café de l’Ormeau on the village square in Ramatuelle is always a nice stop.
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Are there any cultural sites that we must see?
The small Musée de l’Annonciade, right on the port near Hermès, is a real gem. It houses beautiful paintings by the Pointillists, Nabis, and Fauves – all celebrating the magic and intensity of colour.
Which shops do you always visit when you’re there? Are there any crafts that the area is known for that would make a good souvenir?
Rondini’s sandal shop is an institution, and I can’t resist getting a new pair every season. Correspondances is a great multi-brand store with a wonderful mix of pieces, and By Marie is perfect for jewellery and swimsuits, with a beautiful range of colours.
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Which are the best spots for people watching?
Place des Lices, the town’s main public square, while the locals play pétanque day and night. Pull up a seat at nearby Le Café des Arts to watch the crowd, while drinking a local aperitif, such as perroquet, a Mauresque or a pastis (all have an anise flavour). I’ve mentioned it already, but Chez Sénéquier is also excellent for crowd-watching. During September’s annual sailing race Les Voiles, you’ll spot beautiful boats.
Where should we go for late night dancing?
Mediterranean restaurant La Sauvageonne, on the road to Bonne Terrasse in Ramatuelle, is set among lush vegetation, making it a very special place. There’s a hidden piano bar and DJ sets; the evenings almost always end in dancing amid the tables. I must also mention the Byblos’ Le Cave du Roy – the famous nightclub of the eponymous hotel in the heart of the village.
What does a perfect day in St Tropez look like to you?
I’d start the day with an early swim at Les Salins beach, followed by a long walk along the coastal path Sentier des Douaniers, from the Baie des Canoubiers all the way to Plage des Salins. I’d have lunch at feet-in-the-sand spot Les Salins restaurant, with a plate of grilled sardines. On the way back from the beach, I’d stop for a drink at Café des Arts on Place des Lices before heading home to watch the sunset and prepare dinner with the friends staying with us.
In one word St Tropez is…
A small Provençal village full of charm, which began attracting celebrities last century – and continues to do so today.
Lead image: Shutterstock
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