There is something very gratifying about telling someone that the object or wardrobe piece that they’ve just complimented you on is, in fact, from an overseas flea market.
It denotes a discerning eye and, most importantly, a strong understanding of personal taste. In an algorithm-led world, picking something up at an antique market is a show of confidence and individuality – and in few destinations does the experience feel as romantic as in France. Sharon Santoni, who has spent decades trawling the country’s brocantes and antique fairs, has now shared the secrets to sourcing the perfect find in a new book, The Art of Antiquing.
She moved to Normandy with her French husband after deciding to raise a family there, which is where she discovered the joys of the Sunday morning brocantes. “Armed with wellington boots, and a flashlight, I would head out at dawn to scour the local fairs in misty fields and small stone-built villages,” she tells us. “I discovered a wealth of antique tableware, silverware, small furniture and linens that totally changed the way we furnished our home.”
Sharon Santoni photographed by Anthony Lanneretonne
Santoni thinks that the Gallic tradition of good design is what makes brocantes such a treasure trove. “Old family chateaux and properties are often sold off by their owners and the contents dispersed,” she explains. The trick to finding the perfect buy is to “buy with your heart. There’s no point in following somebody else’s tips if you end up buying things you don’t like. Be sure of your colour palette, and make a note of your room measurements in advance if you are thinking of buying furniture. Be ready for some gentle price negotiation, and enjoy the moment.”
The author and entrepreneur travels around France often, where she has learnt where the best brocantes and fairs are located. For her, it’s as much about the craftsmanship and the story behind each piece, as it is the thrill of the find. “Different regions yield different treasures and it’s fun to discover local styles,” she says. “It is also true that the greatest density of fairs is, unsurprisingly, where everyone loves to gather. Paris, Provence and Normandy all offer spectacular buying opportunities.”
Here, Santoni shares her favourite French markets, from Paris to Nice, for the most beautiful homewares.
Foire de Chatou, Chatou
This outstanding fair, known for its beautiful stands, is held twice a year: in spring and then again in late September, for ten days each time on the western outskirts of Paris. Dealers arrive from all around France with their best items to offer to an enthusiastic clientele. Make a full day of it and enjoy lunch at one of the on-site restaurants. The shippers also turn up here, so transporting any larger item becomes relatively easy.
Réderie d’Amiens, Amiens
A huge one-day event in the Picardie region. Vendors display their wares throughout the town, and buyers can literally walk for miles. Buying starts around 1am and continues until the end of the day. A great place for serious buyers with comfortable shoes and an option for transporting the purchases home.
Puces de Vanves, Paris
The smallest of Paris’ flea markets, Puces de Vanves takes place each Saturday and Sunday morning on a street in the 14th arrondissement. Dealers unload directly from their vans around 8am, and by midday they start to pack up. A great place to buy paintings, and other small items.
Puces de Saint-Ouen, Paris
This incredible market is unique in the world. Whatever it is you are looking for, it is here, somewhere! The market is divided into a series of smaller markets, each with their own speciality. My favourites are Paul Bert, Serpette and Dauphine. Even if you don’t purchase anything, simply wandering through the stands is an education in design over the past 150 years.
Cours Saleya, Nice
Home to the flower and vegetable market all through the week, and to a wonderful brocante fair every Monday morning; this market offers a big choice of antique and brocante items in a gorgeous setting. When you’ve had enough shopping, enjoy a coffee and watch the world go by.
Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, Avignon
Across the river from the Papal city of Avignon is a small town which hosts an excellent brocante fair every Saturday morning. You’ll find ceramics, antique pottery and beautiful fabrics and bedspreads. Arrive early and shop through the morning, then wander into the town to find lunch.
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
Half of this small town in Provence is given over to high-end antique dealers who open from Friday to Sunday. There is also a street brocante fair on Sunday, and twice a year a bigger brocante fair held in the Parc Gautier in the town centre. My favourite spots to shop here are the Hôtel Dongier and the L’Île aux Brocantes.
Find out more in The Art of Antiquing in France: Flea Markets, Brocantes, Antique Shops by Sharon Santoni (Flammarion).
Lead image: Shutterstock
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