Sunken into the Alpine valley of Grossarl, Hotel Nesslerhof is a family-owned retreat in the heart of the Austrian Alps. It’s known as ‘The Natural Happiness Hotel’. Sarah Barnes finds out why.
An annual pilgrimage to the mountains is not solely reserved for long-time skiers. If, like me, you’re in search of relaxation and a dose of happiness, you’re in for a treat at the higher altitudes, whatever the season.
The concept at Hotel Nesslerhof, a five-star, family-owned retreat in Austria, is based around harnessing the different sources of natural happiness. Come winter, spring, summer or autumn, the authentic relaxation methods, mindful experiences and nature-led wellness rituals offered here help guests connect with the surrounding nature. More importantly, I found that in just a few days I could reconnect with myself again, too.
The Vibe
Just one hours’ drive from Salzburg airport, after winding through the mountain roads of Hohe Tauern National Park, the air clears and peace reigns supreme. Opened in 2011 and then renovated in 2023, Hotel Nesslerhof is bookable in both summer and winter, welcoming anyone in search of a dose of happiness and wellness, at any time of year.
Post-renovation, the retreat has created a real feeling of stylish cabin-style cosiness. On arrival through the bright lobby bar, you’re greeted with champagne and fresh pumpkin bites, while smokey log fires, warm wooden furniture and grey sheepskin chairs offer snug corners for check in. This same sleek-yet-wholesome interior leads you through to the sunshine terrace that overlooks the valley, with panoramic views of the majestic mountain peaks. Heartfelt service is the first source of happiness I discovered here; staff are known as ‘guest whisperers’ and a ‘happiness concierge team’ – all proudly in traditional Austrian dress – are on hand to help you discover those daily moments of joy throughout your stay.
The Rooms
Eighty-six Nordic-style rooms and suites make up the hotel, ranging between 35- and 200-square-metres of space. With interiors designed using local woods to emulate the Alpine forest outside, this home-away-from-home was my base for long lazy days. Spacious rooms offer fluffy white beds for a restful sleep (the foundation of happiness) with luxurious rain showers and private balconies. The suites are for all-out indulgence with a cosy fireplace, outdoor Jacuzzi, whirlpool, and relaxation loungers yours – and yours only – to enjoy.
The Stargazer suite is especially charming (in every way). A chic living room opens up to a rich brown marble wet room, with free-standing vanity sinks and the hotel’s own branded amenities (stock up at the reception’s concept store before your departure). Floor-to-ceiling windows showcase the mountainscape, visible from your pillow. But the true highlight is your private in-room sauna, that can be heated to three temperatures and infused with a choice of peppermint, wild forest or mountain herb essential oils. I started my mornings by sipping on a warming cup of tea while my sauna heated up, for an early detox session. Name a happier ritual to start the day…
The Food + Drink
They say happiness is linked to your gut, and dining here hits the spot. The main eatery at Hotel Nesslerhof is a wrap-around restaurant, and the mountains are spectacular from every stylish dining room. I (along with every other guest) had my own designated table throughout my stay; no need to book, a table was waiting for me. Eggs come from happy chickens in the local town, while an on-site butchery provides the best cuts of meat. Every meal at Nesslerhof is intentionally portioned, with fresh and nutritious ingredients, all used in a way that minimises food waste.
Breakfast is a delicious buffet-style affair with all the meats, cheeses, fruits and hand-cut loaves you could need. On the hot menu, the truffle scrambled eggs with mushrooms and parmesan are a must-try. Stop by the ‘build your own pastry basket’ corner, where croissants, Bundt cakes and sweet apricot tarts are freshly baked and ready to taste. Stay hydrated with steamy coffees, teas and matcha lattes. For those after an immunity boost, the juicing corner, for a hot lemon and ginger shot, is a must.
Come 2:30pm (when hunger inevitably strikes again – blame the mountain air), lunch is served. Another buffet of healthy salads and soups can be enjoyed at your leisure, and is best taken in your spa robe (which is the norm here). Dinner service focuses on both international and local flavours, with a nightly changing four-course menu. The paprika sturgeon fish, Turan lamb with curried couscous and warm buttermilk cake were personal favourites.
To exercise the art of slowing down, I often found myself spending the evening with a nightcap at the low-lit The Spirit Bar. Here, roaring fireplaces and low-slung sofa seating welcome guests, accompanied by live music once a week, to relax with a comforting glass of red wine, whiskey or hot cocoa.
The Spa
It’s said that when your body and mind are in harmony, happiness follows. The hotel’s spa and Water World spans over 5,000-square-metres, and this is where my tired muscles found new life. The indoor pool and family-friendly sauna lead you out to the crown jewel, a 25-metre heated outdoor pool, where you can float and swim panoramic laps while gazing up at the Alps. Fitted with a whirlpool and bubble loungers, the steam evaporates in swirly cloud-like formations, making you feel lost in the mountains without a care in the world. Even better, it’s surrounded by a natural pond, where you can bathe in the summer months. Come winter, the staff carve a hole in the frozen ice (for those brave enough to cold plunge). This is a practice believed to reduce inflammation, ease muscle soreness and bring you closer to nature.
You’re free to wander the eight relaxation rooms that, in a very smart move, have one bed for every guest: a place to rejuvenate post-swim is always guaranteed. With water beds, floating chairs, cocooned sofas (you name it), you’ll feel warm and cosy again in no time.
Most of my daily moments in the spa are spent somewhere between 60-90°C, with the adult-only saunas tucked away in a tranquil quarter of the hotel. I’d dip in and out between the steam bath, Swiss stone pine sauna, event sauna (where a sauna master leads a guided infusion), outdoor wooden sauna and outdoor salt water pool. Naturally, these are all naked areas (otherwise known as textile free), which is a deep-rooted cultural tradition in Austria and one I found created a communal, body-positive experience, emphasising the importance of your skin’s health and detoxification. But don’t worry, it’s not mandatory – you can stay wrapped in a towel, if it’s more comfortable.
And of course, no spa trip is complete without a treatment: the 50-minute full body massage here is not to be missed. My expert therapist moulded my muscles out of tightly clenched knots, releasing tension and long-carried stress, leaving me truly pampered and relaxed. Once finished, I recommend a hazy walk to the Garden Bar, where a glowing fireplace offers a place of comfort to finish unwinding.
The Little Extras
I find that happiness often resides when you are being truly mindful. Which means a visit to the hotel’s fitness zone is a must. Here, reformer Pilates machines and gym bikes are positioned facing the windows to evoke the sense of cycling in nature. Flow, sound and face yoga classes run daily in the dedicated yoga studio – sessions I found helpful to detox my mind and regain my focus.
Looking to challenge yourself? Book the hotel’s three-day ice bathing and breathwork experience, led by expert Edith Aigner during the winter season. Step into crystal-clear -6°C mountain water to harness the invigorating power of cold exposure and to take breathwork sessions inspired by the Wim Hof Method. All of it will help you unlock a calmer (and happier!) mind, strengthen your body, and ignite your resilience.
The To Do List
Another of the hotel’s big sources of natural happiness is the joy of nature. Skiing is a must during winter season, and for those partial to the slopes, they’re right outside the hotel door; Nesslerhof offers unbeatable ski-in ski-out access to the Grossarltal-Dorfgastein ski area, part of the vast Ski Amadé region. Expect 760 kilometres of perfectly groomed runs to explore. In spring and summer, a walk around the hills, nature coming into bloom, is sure to increase your serotonin levels.
The stylish Sky Lounge Wolke 7, run by the hotel team, is perched amongst the peaks. This glamorous cabin restaurant serves glasses of crisp sparkling wine and plates of warm Austrian Kaiserschmarrn (fluffy, lightly sweetened bite-sized pancakes). I found myself sitting here for hours, soaking up the live music that echoed around the mountains – which is pretty much happiness, guaranteed.
Lead image: Hotel Nesslerhof
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