After devouring 600g of Chateaubriand steak and a tuna tataki pizza washed down with delicious local wine, a particularly tipsy member of our crew danced over to the gelato cart and began miming, as if she was about to serve us some dessert.
We were the last ones standing at the Alpina Chalet Bar & Grill, and most of the staff had turned in for the evening, having to return bright and early to serve morning skiers eager to beat the first lifts. Just then, a waiter approached us, and I braced myself for a chiding; surely my travel companion was about to be told off for stepping behind the cart. Instead, he broke out into a cheeky grin and said, “I’ll have a scoop of pistachio, please.”
This warmth and humour would come to define the service during our stay at COMO Alpina Dolomites, the South Tyrolean gem in luxury hospitality group COMO’s distinguished portfolio. Ensconced in Alpe di Siusi, between breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage cliffs, the property is one of the most luxurious, if not most recognisable structures of the Val Gardena mountains, with its jagged facade mimicking the iconic peaks. Its prime position on the slopes of the ski resort not only ensures true ski-in-ski-out access in the winter, but also means having dozens of hiking and biking trails at its doorstep in the summer.
The Vibe
Relaxed luxury best describes this alpine retreat, boasting all the trimmings of a five-star hotel without the pretense. Cosy nooks are decorated with cool, mid-century modern furniture with shearling throws and tartan blankets sprinkled throughout. Small families and international retirees are all welcome, mingling harmoniously at the bar or at the Bar & Grill jutting right out onto the slope. But despite the sprawling property, even at capacity, one does not lose a sense of intimacy.
The Rooms
All incredibly generous in size, the accommodation ranging from terraced rooms to suites are designed to feel like a mountain home. Wooden tables and embroidered textiles in lush blue shades create a calming environment conducive to relaxation, while the expansive terrace that faces the mountains or directly onto the slopes means no artwork can ever compare to the ever-changing scenery. Copious amounts of closet space also means never having to fight for room to air out your ski or hiking gear.
For larger groups, the Mountain Suite which hosts up to four guests comes with a clean-burning, bio-ethanol fireplace and a private infrared sauna, while the COMO Chalet Suite situated just above the ski room also includes a dining area and kitchenette for families.
Food + Drink
Dining at COMO Alpina Dolomites is an event in itself. Besides a sprawling breakfast buffet, complete with hot dishes made to order, a fresh juice bar, and a thoughtful, daily complimentary afternoon snack featuring salami sandwiches and fresh fruit at the lobby, the property houses three well-appointed restaurants serving diverse menus and local cuisine. One night you could dine at Sassolungo on international dishes or COMO’s signature healthful menu inspired by Shambhala Cuisine (this writer is still dreaming of a beautiful seaweed-wrapped leek dish designed to look like garlic cloves). The next evening, pop to the Alpina Chalet Grill and Bar for casual fare of gourmet steaks, pizza and gelato, then spend another night at Trattoria dell’Alpe, the resident seafood restaurant whose menu draws inspiration from Venice and Verona where salt-crusted cod, whole turbot and lemon pasta with scampi await. Hungry skiers will be delighted to find that the portions are as satisfying as the quality of the dishes.
The Spa
Perhaps more so than other mountain destinations, the Dolomites have become renowned for properties that offer extensive spa facilities. COMO Alpina, already beloved globally for its holistic wellness concept COMO Shambhala, takes the immersive wellness retreat to a whole new level. At reception, you are greeted by a circular machine designed by NASA called the Space Curl which challenges your core and back muscles. Behind it lies a steaming lap pool, which leads straight out into the snow, where you could watch the gondola lifts swish by. But it’s the maze-like spa that you’ll want to spend hours in… every day. Hop between the salt and aroma steam rooms into the Finnish and herbal saunas to enjoy daily sauna infusions involving essential oils and a sauna master who moves hot air around the room to boost your circulation—before checking into one of dozens of massages and treatments on offer. The signature COMO Shambhala massage is not to be missed; long flowing movements along the body and face left me floating into one of the panoramic relaxation areas, where I took a much-needed nap on one of the water beds.
The To-Do List
Visiting mid-March offers the best of both worlds. Grab your gear from their full-service ski room and head out with one of their resident guides across the various mountains (you can even attempt the famed Sellaronda tour, a circuit which loops around the Sella Massif, connecting four mountain passes in a single day), then, just as the snow melts in the afternoon, return to an afternoon of pampering at the spa. Not a skier? Snowshoeing hikes are just as popular in the winter, while mountain biking, guided hikes and golf at nearby St Vigil Seis are great options for warmer months. Pro tip: Flying SkyAlps, which operates a handful of propeller planes from London Gatwick, gets you directly to Bolzano airport which is only an hour drive from the property.
Born in Hong Kong and educated in America, Rosie is a seasoned fashion and travel editor whose work has appeared in publications like Tatler Asia, ELLE and Marie Claire. When she’s not plotting her next escape to a pristine beach, she can be found scoping out the newest Asian restaurants in London.
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