Portugal's Not-So-Serious Yoga Haven (For Those Who Want Some Fun On Their Next Retreat)

Have you always thought that retreats need to be strict and reverential to be effective? Think again. The Quinta Camarena Not So Serious Yoga Retreat is adding a firm focus of fun to the agenda.

As a long-term fan of yoga, CF contributor Catherine Cooper was keen to find a yoga retreat where she could enjoy daily classes and generally feel a bit spoilt.

“I love the movement and flow of yoga, but (controversial I know) am much less interested in the more ‘spiritual’ side,” she reveals. “I didn’t want to be expected to go to meditation sessions, cacoa ceremonies or to get involved in ‘sharing circles’. In fact, when on holiday – I didn’t want anything to be obligatory. I was also looking for good food (and wine!) and some other activity options besides yoga, ideally somewhere sunny. The Quinta Camarena Not So Serious Yoga Retreat in Portugal’s unspoilt Alentejo seemed to tick all the boxes.

Here’s her full review.

THE LOWDOWN 

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THE RETREAT

 

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On the website, the Not So Serious Yoga Retreat offers a tantalising preposition: ‘No rigid schedules here, no judgement, plenty of chill time. It’s about having fun, connecting with nature, discovering the region, and finding your balance’. And they were absolutely true to their word.

The day started with an (optional, of course) yoga class at 8.30am with yoga teacher Joana. The hour-long class was suitable for all levels and she adapted the practice accordingly over the week as she learned more about people’s wants, experience and daily energy levels. On some days there was also a second yoga class in the afternoon, and guests were welcome to use the pavilion, which had sliding glass walls so you could open it to the air, for their own practice at any time.

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After morning yoga there was a fabulous daily-changing brunch and then, for the rest of the day, you could do as much or as little as you liked. A couple of days I simply lazed by the pool.

 
 

After morning yoga there was always a fabulous daily-changing brunch and then, for the rest of the day, you could do as much or as little as you liked. A couple of days I simply lazed by the pool. One day I joined the group on a trip to the nearby seaside town of Vila Nova de Milfontes. An out of season visit in late March to this near empty beach for a stroll was an absolute joy, followed by an excellent lunch of fried cuttlefish at restaurant Quebra Mar overlooking the water. Another day we visited a couple of local artisans in the village. Hiking, surfing, SUP, horse-riding and cookery classes were other available options too, which I might have got around to had I been staying longer. I did, however, find time for a blissful massage with Jana.

THE ROOMS

 

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There are 13 rooms at Quinta Camarena, six ‘Rustic’ rooms split across two buildings close to the pool and dining room, and the newer ‘Hillside’ rooms which are around a four-minute walk away at the far end of the garden. All rooms are bright, comfortable and welcoming with artwork by Cam (he was a commercial photographer in a previous life). My split-level Hillside room was a mix of old and modern with plenty of polished concrete, cosy blankets from a local artisan, a balcony with a hammock and a small terrace. It also had a stunning sunset view over the trees. There are a couple of rooms in the ‘main’ area which also have simple kitchens, while the other three rooms share a communal lounge. Hammocks and chairs are dotted around the property so there’s always somewhere to escape to, should you want to. Organic bar toiletries (no plastics!) including hair conditioner are supplied, as is a glass bottle which can be refilled at a nearby water fountain.

THE DINING 

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Portuguese-born Vera told me that when she and Cam first arrived in Alentejo, they initially thought they might regularly have to go to Lisbon for the kind of produce they wanted to serve to their guests, because the produce in the supermarkets is fairly limited. However, they quickly realised that excellent ingredients were in actual fact available – just usually direct from small producers. Chef Rafa, who worked in five-star hotels and Michelin-starred restaurants in Lisbon before moving to Alentejo for a quieter life, is passionate about simple food created from the best seasonal ingredients and every meal was fantastic – totally exceeding my expectations.

Dishes were largely (though not exclusively) vegetarian and what was really notable for me was the intensity of the colours and flavours. Everything was also beautifully presented, with edible flowers from the garden decorating many dishes and fresh blooms always in simple vases on the table. Highlights of dinners for me included a velvety beetroot soup and roasted chicken breast with chimichurri, and each night there was a suggested wine pairing of local wines, presented by Cam or Vera with a few details about the producer. You could also buy extra glasses or bottles as you wished on an honesty bar system.

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Brunch was prepared by Maria and was different every day, including yoghurt pancakes, oranges from the garden’s trees sprinkled with cinnamon (the fresh orange juice was particularly noteworthy), buckwheat carrot cake with walnuts, and there was always a hot option too, such as an amazing tomato confit with fried eggs, or veggie frittata.

Fabulous as the food at Quinta Camarena was, another nice feature of the retreat was that two nights we walked into the village to dine at local restaurants (included in the price) and sample traditional Alentejo dishes – codfish cakes, octopus with rice and Alentejo ‘surf and turf’ (pork and prawns) one night, and tapas followed by traditional Alentejo tomato soup with poached eggs, the next.

THE MUST-EXPERIENCE LIST

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While the location is beautiful and about as calm as you will find anywhere, with so little light pollution that you will rarely see the stars so clearly, it’s difficult to get across quite how much the specialness of Quinta Camarena is down to the people. Vera, Cam and their small team truly seem to care about their guests having a good time, and making sure they have what they need in such a low key way that you barely notice. They are also mindful about their retreat being integrated with the community – not only in taking us out to local restaurants, but also offering English lessons to their staff who are interested, buying from local suppliers and even inviting along a group of traditional Alentejo singers to entertain us after dinner one evening.

Available activities are written on a discreet blackboard each day – if you want to take part, you simply turn up (or ask the night before for surfing) – if not, you don’t. There is no frantic scheduling, no need to make a decision in advance. The two well-behaved dogs and cat Mia add to the homely atmosphere, and there was great excitement all around as new chicks arrived during my stay. The small town of Cercal is a 15-minute walk away, meaning you can pop in for supplies if you’ve forgotten your suncream, visit a local artisan such as leather worker Paulo or simply grab a coffee and people watch.

THE FINAL VERDICT

Quinta Camarena’s Not So Serious Yoga Retreat more than exceeded my expectations. Around half of the participants (all women) were travelling alone, others were friends or mum-daughter pairs: from all walks of life, across a wide range of ages, and mainly from the US or UK. I’m someone who likes my own space and this retreat was ideal for me; somewhere I was able to be alone when I wanted, or have company when I fancied it. The wonderful food and fun activities seemed to be on offer exactly when I wanted them – but most of all, I enjoyed not having to think about anything at all.