A feast for the eyes and the tastebuds awaits in East London: Café Jikoni by wife-husband duo Ravinder Bhogal and Nadeem Lalani Nanjuwany has opened inside the brand-new V&A East Museum (the newest and most talked-about museum in London right now).
Like their original restaurant – Jikoni in Marylebone – their newest venture celebrates the movement of communities, plus the ingredients, recipes and subsequent dishes that travel with them.
In this deliciously foodie-led conversation, Ravinder tells us about some of her favourite places to eat and why. Including London’s best places for date nights, celebrations and street-food eats; her favourite restaurants around the world (found in Mumbai, Sri Lanka, Somerset and Italy); and her all-time most memorable meal – this is Where The Chef’s Eat with Ravinder Bhogal.
Café Jikoni by Ravinder Bhogal and Nadeem Lalani Nanjuwany is inside the new V&A East Museum
You’re celebrating good news, where are you?Â
Quo Vadis because j’adore Jeremy Lee, the twinkle in his eye, his craft and, frankly, the man can’t put a foot wrong. Being there always feels celebratory. I save room for the puddings, especially the profiteroles. I challenge you to find better ones anywhere.
A friend is in London for the first time, where are you eating on day one?
Chishuru because it has been on my list for far too long.
Chishuru by Adejoké Bakare
It’s date night: secret spot for two?
Maison François. Effortlessly sexy and the room makes me swoon. Plus the dessert trolley is the way to my heart and loins. Spring is also a favourite. We had our wedding reception there so it holds very special memories.
Best place for a street-food snack?Â
Asher’s Africana on Ealing Road make crispy bhajis – thin slices of potato fried in a crisp spiced gram flour batter that is very nostalgic for me. It’s a sort of Kenyan- Indian ‘if-you-know-you-know’ snack.
Favourite sandwich spot?Â
Café Jikoni by Ravinder Bhogal and Nadeem Lalani
Can I say my newly opened Café Jikoni? We make a Goan aubergine achaar, Monty’s cheddar and green-chutney toastie on E5’s finest sourdough that’s to die for. Also don’t miss getting your chops around the classic Bombay sandwich, it’s like a party in your mouth. Other than this it would be The Dusty Knuckle.
The one restaurant you don’t want anyone to find out about (but will tell us here)?
I don’t gate-keep joy, especially where food is concerned, it is for sharing not hoarding. Plus our restaurants need all the support we can give in the current economic hellscape. I recently took Jay Rayner to Apna Panjab in Southall for the best Panjabi food in London. He was blown away and wrote an incredible review. The Amritsari kulchas, a ghee-laden tandoori stuffed bread is unmissable. A reminder that immigrants make Britain great (and more delicious).
London’s must-do dining experience?
The treacle tart at Simpson’s in the Strand. Image credit: David Loftus
Simpson’s in the Strand – anything Jeremy King turns his golden hand to is always magical, but it takes verve and great vision to revive an institution like Simpson’s.
London’s must-eat dish?
The celeriac shawarma at Rovi. A clever, delicious vegetable-forward dish in the chicest surroundings and a chance to worship at the altar of the God of vegetables Yotam Ottolenghi. What’s not to love?
Where are you and a group of girlfriends getting together for an overdue catch up?
Kolae – dishes that keep your tongue wagging and your mouth watering. Their small plates are the most perfect girl dinner.
Favourite dining experience on your last trip abroad?
Butter garlic prawn toast at Bandra Born, Mumbai
Bandra Born in Mumbai. Chef Gresham Fernandes is so skilled, playful, and creative. The plates are fun, rebellious, unconventional and aim to please. Plus the space is full of people having fun and hip hop on the sound system.
Your most memorable meal ever was where and why?
The first time I went to Shree Thaker Bhojanalay in Mumbai, a hundred-year-old institution. It was mango season and every dish – sweet and savoury – was a love letter to the king of fruits. It was mesmerising and generous. Needless to say I rolled out.
Favourite restaurants outside of London?Â
Hela Bojun Hala in Sri Lanka. It’s an initiative, launched by the Department of Agriculture, that runs food outlets operated by rural women. The food is maternal, generous and delicious and a great place to eat authentic Sri Lankan food.
Osip in Somerset, because chef Merlin is a magician by name and nature. His sourcing is impeccable, the respect for ingredients is exemplary, the plates are a visual delight and the balance of flavours is so thoughtful. I can’t wait to go again.
Osip’s Grilled hogget, Croquette of lamb belly and Cassoulet of white beans. Image Credit: Olivia Anderson
Trattoria Dardano in Cortona, Tuscany, because I adore the owner Paolo Castelli. The food is simple, regional (pasta con lumache) and generous like the owner. They make the best kind of tiramisu that has no shape or form, it’s light and airy and has the perfect balance of coffee and booze.
Swati Snacks in Mumbai for nostalgic Gujarati food that always tastes home cooked.
Café Madras in Mumbai for the ghee-soaked idlis and sambhar.Â
Which dish are you always thinking about?
It was a dessert I ate at Osip – so good I almost cried. It was a frozen marshmallow filled with shiso oil, rhubarb granita and rhubarb sorbet. It was the perfect dish – technically, visually and flavour. 10/10 no notes.
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Lead image: Beca Jones
Katie Silcox is Citizen Femme’s managing editor. Originally from the UK, she’s also lived in India, the UAE and spent seven years based in Athens, where Greek-island hopping was her favourite summer pastime. She’s previously worked across titles including Condé Nast Traveller, GQ and Architectural Digest.Â
