Proving solo travel in Santorini is possible (and looking for a way to slow the pace of busy life), Katie Silcox checks out of the city hustle and into a solo retreat on one of the world’s most romantic islands.
Many years ago, a friend of mine planned a romantic week in Santorini with his girlfriend. They called off the relationship before the dates of the trip arrived, and he decided to cancel his visit altogether; not because he was particularly upset about the breakdown and breakup of their relationship but, because, in his words: “you can’t go to one of the world’s most romantic places alone.”
He explained that he’d feel awkward eating dinner alone overlooking Santorini’s caldera, and he’d be embarrassed to check into his Oia hotel solo. I disagreed. I distinctly remember not understanding him, telling him “if you have the chance to go to Santorini, you should take it!” – and it’s a motion I still stand behind.
At the time, I’d never been to Santorini. But I have now, four times. Twice with friends, once with my partner and, most recently, solo. While the island’s west-coast caldera might be its main attraction, there’s a quieter, calmer side to Santorini in the east so, in search of some downtime alone, I booked a four-night break at Magma Resort Santorini – The Unbound Collection by Hyatt’ as part of their ‘Me-Moon’ package.
I thought of my old friend (who never got to see Santorini) as I landed on the Greek island alone late last summer, taking a transfer-for-one (complimentary for guests who book the Me-Moon package) to Magma Resort for a solo getaway. True to my words ten years ago, I was happy to be spending four nights alone on one of the world’s most romantic islands.
Rather than feeling apprehensive about checking in solo, I was excited. It’s a rare thing to have four days exclusively to ourselves – and even rarer that those days are spent soaking up the sun in a high-end hotel. Let alone on a beautiful Greek island like Santorini. With nothing more than hand-luggage in tow (swimsuit, kaftans, a couple of evening dresses, minimal makeup and a book), I was looking forward to the me-time that only a solo trip can offer. Lie-ins. Spa treatments. Sun loungers. Finally finishing more than half a chapter of a book.
Eating dinner alone, however, I was slightly apprehensive about. It’s often said that one of the hardest things to do when travelling solo is to dine alone. Dinner specifically. During a hotel’s breakfast service there’s a general consensus from staff and other guests that you might pop down for coffee and a quick bite solo. Any eating-solo-at-a-hotel nerves at lunchtime are easily dissipated by ordering snacks to your poolside lounger. But dinner? Dinner is a different beast. Dining solo at night – when everyone is dressed up and couples are sharing bottles of wine over candlelight – often makes even the most confident of us feel self-conscious. If this resonates, take heart that this is true even for someone like me who has travelled (and eaten!) solo more times that I can remember.
But, before my first dinner reservation arrived, I had plenty of time to entertain myself. As part of Magma Resort’s Me-Moon package, guests visiting solo are invited to wake up well by joining a morning yoga session overlooking the sea. I’m no yogi but this session stays with me as the best yoga class I’ve ever taken, thanks to an expert teacher who really leaned into working with me in the way that best suited my needs. Other activities included in the package include wine tasting with food pairing at Magma’s vineyard, which is conveniently located within the hotel grounds and led by the hotel’s sommelier (meaning there’s no hoopla or fuss about wandering into the vineyard solo); private cocktail or mocktail mixology classes; days spent soaking up the sun in a cabana at nearby Yalos Beach club; and discounts on treatments at the hotel spa (not to mention the use of their calming indoor spa pool, steam room, sauna and gym).
My first activity? A strong coffee by the pool, where I remained for most of the day, bar a leisurely visit to the poolside restaurant for lunch. Although I’d arrived with the best-laid plans for my four days alone – so much time to catch up on the TV series I’d missed thanks to my busy lifestyle, read a book, make plans – all I actually wanted to do once I finally breathed that sigh of solo relief was to sprawl under the sun, caffeine in hand.
I had to fight my ‘must-be-productive’ urge hard though. While my body and mind needed the rest, my brain is not very good at switching off, so my supposed-to-be-relaxing poolside morning started with my mind running through a million and one things I should be doing, thinking or checking off my mental to-do list. Email that person. Book that flight. Do the online supermarket shop for next week. Start the article you’ve been meaning to write. Check your WhatsApp messages. Call your mum. Post an Instagram story.
While I’m guilty of following through on this last one – plenty of Instagram stories were posted during this stay! – I found that I was, in fact, able to allow my mind to switch off from the rest of it more quickly than I’d imagined. I started slowing down, noticing things like the wildflowers swaying in the breeze, the birds chirping outside my bedroom window, the clouds wafting through the blue sky above me. Radical revelations, I know.
And so the days passed much like this, but broken up by indulgent activities: a massage in the spa; a sunset spent tasting Santorini’s finest wines; breakfasts and lunches with nothing but the delicious and fresh Greek-grown ingredients to keep me company; a morning yoga class that I really didn’t want to rise early for but was so glad I did. Personally, I found all of this enough to keep me entertained throughout my stay, but there is a free transfer to and from Santorini’s caldera should you wish to do some sightseeing. If it’s your first time in Santorini, it’s a must.
I’d promised myself that I’d really lean into my solo downtime experience, and that meant not spending entire mealtimes scrolling on my phone. Including at dinner time. On the first evening, I abjectly failed, finding myself more than happy to be distracted by Whatsapp messages or, at some points, pretending to be busy in my emails when it was nine o’clock on a Saturday night and there were no urgent work or personal matters to attend to. Finding too much comfort in my phone for my first solo dinner, I resorted to leaving my phone in my bedroom on the second night. And the third, and the fourth.
Magma Soul Restaurant
Night by night, I found my confidence dining alone improving. Instead of rushing my meals, I savoured my dishes. Welcoming and friendly staff at the hotel’s restaurant Magma Soul helped me achieve this (and my no-phone policy helped too). Once I’d taken my eyes off my phone and placed my attention on my surroundings instead, everyone from the waiters to the hotel manager were more than happy to tell me about the ingredients in the dishes, and inspire me with their favourite places to visit in Santorini.
In fact, I came to feel that a solo dinner time was a true act of self care. Much like the entire act of taking a solo break is. My 10-year-old convictions were true: Santorini might be one of the most romantic islands in the world, but solo trips are not only doable, they’re thoroughly enjoyable. In today’s rushed world, spending these days (and nights) alone allowed me to slow down, enjoy my own company, and board my flight back home with a clearer mind.
Katie Silcox is Citizen Femme’s managing editor who writes about travel and culture. Originally from the UK, she’s also lived in India, the UAE and Greece, where island hopping was her favourite summer pastime. She’s previously worked across titles including Condé Nast Traveller, GQ and Architectural Digest.
All images: Magma Resort Santorini
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