It’s just before 10pm on a Friday and three of my best friends and I are attempting to light a fire outside the bucolic barn we’ve hired in deepest rural Sussex.
The sun has dropped behind the surrounding hills, and the sky is a carve-up of graduating pinks. It is quiet except for the sound of our cackles; none of us have any idea how to get this fire going. At one point, we try to blow it into being and eventually the elements give in. A few insipid-looking flames curve themselves round the logs, and we get stuck into the business of being away, responsibility-free, as a group of women in our thirties and early forties.
This girls’ trip looks very different to those in our twenties, when suncream was seen as an evil and abundantly cheap wine an essential. Now, time is scarce and loads much heavier, but we couldn’t value this time together more – uninterrupted days to unpick each other’s worries and joys, and to examine the finer details and potential philosophy behind Taylor Swift’s wedding. Three out of four of us still drink alcohol, but the idea of a hangover fills us with a deep-rooted, wild-eyed dread. We drink less, and when we do we want only the good stuff. What is required of a girls’ getaway now (can we even call ourselves that anymore?) has, at least for my coven and I, changed. We want a beautiful setting somewhere close to London (none of us have the time to travel too far from where our respective bases), and for it to be accessible by train. We want there to be things to do, but nothing too crowded or busy – we have little patience for shouting over one another in a bar. The goal is calm, not chaos. A vineyard or wine stay is a perfect solution; a relaxing escape that is also experiential. What could be more evocative than having wine poured from a barrel before strolling down a sun-baked country lane back to a pretty barn for the evening? It’s refined, but still rural – country without the mud and bad wifi.
The Wine Tourism Boom
Nutbourne Vineyard
Wine tourism is on the rise; in 2023, 1.5 million visits were made to UK vineyards and wineries, up 55 per cent on numbers from 2022. Last year, WineGB reported that UK plantings have increased by 510 per cent since 2005. Many of these now offer accommodation for those who want to disconnect from their day-to-day entirely. At a time when many of us want a more authentic travel experience, wine stays often blend local culture, nature and community. It feels good to get to know the area we’re visiting on a deeper level, and in the proceeds to come away with a bottle-shaped souvenir to drink that evening or at home in the weeks that follow. Whether glossy estates such as Balfour in Kent or rising destinations such as Essex’s Crouch Valley, vineyards deliver tranquility. There’s never been a better time to explore vino on homegrown soil. England is the world’s fastest-growing wine region; UK plantings are up a staggering 510 per cent since 2005, with 99 grape varieties now grown by 238 wineries.
A Sussex Country Trail
The village of Amberley © Alex Kent
Titch Hill © Kip Hideaways
Our wine stay was based in Sussex, a key vineyard region, at a terroir called Titch Hill. In the South Downs, this family-run farm produces small batch, sustainable wines. Its first vineyard – 8.5 acres of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier – was planted in May 2019, before more vines were planted in 2023. The family opened accommodation for the first time this summer now available to book via Kip Hideaways, known for curating the chicest, most soulful boutique rentals in the UK. Titch Hill’s offering includes the romantic Downs Barn that sleeps two people, and two luxury yurts spread out over the estate.
The Hazel yurt © Kip Hideaways
Inside The Black Horse in Amberley
To maximise the wine theme of our trip, we headed first to Amberley, an idyllic West Sussex village filled with 17th-century flint-walled cottages with thatch roofs – the sort of place that Americans think the entire UK looks like. We had lunch at The Black Horse, a Grade II-listed pub with rooms, recently taken over by Local & Wild restaurant group, run by the three Gladwin brothers who grew up nearby. The food is excellent – farm-to-fork, generous dishes made using local, seasonal produce – and we sit on a pretty terrace at a table decorated in wild flowers. The oozy burrata comes with ripe, juicy tomatoes and a delicious nutty, pesto sauce and the monkfish is perfectly tender – the ideal meal for a warm June day. It’s an inviting place, made more so by charming staff. The Gladwins are known for their award-winning Nutbourne wines, which are made up on their family farm and vineyard five miles away, and our next stop. We take a 15-minute taxi to the estate, a peaceful, relaxed haven with various spots to enjoy a tasting. Wine expert Olivia takes us for a tour, imparting her knowledge with warmth and clarity, before we sit down to try a selection of the produce while looking out on sweeping views of the wildflower meadows and South Downs. The vineyard hosts regular pop-ups beyond tours and tastings, from farm feasts with Nutbourne wines to ‘burgers and fizz’ Fridays.
Discovering Titch Hill
Wine made at Titch Hill Winery © Kip Hideaways
Two hours and an assortment of excellent wine later, we jump in another taxi to Titch Hill – a 35-minute journey. ‘Off the beaten track’ is an appropriate term for our staycation home and our driver gamely follows a narrow dusty lane that winds around a patchwork of fields and beyond the farm itself. Downs Barn sits at the bottom of a hill where its neighbours are a mix of cows, sheep and the (barn) owl that lives in the eaves. We are a 10-minute drive from Worthing train station, but it couldn’t feel further from urbanisation. The views gaze over the rolling landscape and the garden is filled with dancing meadow barley and sprigs of purple flowers. It is deliberately wild with a narrow path that leads to a firepit surrounded by a circle of wooden benches. Inside, the decor is stylishly rustic – we enter to the sounds of Radio 3 being played from a Roberts Revival radio. It’s low-key, but thoughtful. The lighting is warm and the striped bed linen is soft. We are given a hamper of local produce – butter, garlic-y hummus, sourdough bread, eggs and of course a bottle of home-grown wine. We find milk, fresh orange juice and more wine in the fridge. It would be very hard to feel stressed here. We sit by the fire-pit and chat until the stars arrive – and what a sight they are. They’re so bright against the inky black sky that we debate whether what we’re seeing are planes or shooting stars. The jury remains out.
Downs Barn © Kip Hideaways
The next day, we discover with great delight that Uber reaches our remote corner and head to Lancing Beach, a 10-minute drive. Upon the owners’ recommendation, we eat a hearty breakfast at Perch before heading down for a refreshing dip. We return to Titch Hill ready for our scheduled wine tasting, where local boy and former chef-turned-winemaker Sam Bunker takes us through the estate offering. It’s a rustic set-up, and we try wines from the barrels as he talks with enthusiasm about his work and the estate’s plans. Bob Dylan is quietly played through a speaker and the farm dog sleeps on the floor. It’s as perfect as a Friday afternoon can get.
Next spring, the owners – couple Alex Tristram and Josie Lee – will open a bigger winery in an on-site concrete-frame barn. Already the farm houses various pop-up tastings throughout the year, as well as artisan crafts markets, but they hope the forthcoming opening will help them expand their offering further. A few merry hours later, we trundle down the lane back to the barn for another evening of late-hours conversation as our coven of four.
Inside Hazel yurt © Kip Hideaways
The copper shower pod © Kip Hideaways
At midnight, two of us head to one of the neighbouring yurts, a good 10-minute walk along a hedgerow-lined path, torches lighting the way. If you’re more of a glamper than a camper, it’s a great option. A shower with a dome-glass roof makes it feel as if you’re showering under the trees, and the bed is as good as any hotel. There’s a small kitchen stocked with coffee, tea and bread, perfect for an al fresco group breakfast on the deck.
We head back to Worthing, pumped full of country sunshine, calm and organic wine. The 48 hours are as restorative as a week away. We never learnt how to keep the fire going, but that’s just another excuse to return.
FAQS:
How do you get to Titch Hill in Sussex for a Vineyard holiday?
The farm and winery is reachable by car or by train and taxi. From London, it’s no more than two hours by car, and trains from London Victoria to Worthing takes about one hour and 25 minutes. From Worthing, it’s a 10-minute taxi journey. Either you can pre-book with a local cab company such as Arrow, or use Uber (as we did).
Where is it?
Titch Hill is located in the Sussex South Downs surrounded by meadows and rolling fields. The nearest beach Lancing is a 10-minute drive.
Is it family-friendly?
It is possible to request a cot at both the yurts the barn, but there isn’t much space for camp beds beyond that. The private garden at the barn, and seated decking areas at the yurts are perfect for unwinding after the baby/toddler is asleep.
Can I bring my dog?
Yes, absolutely. Titch Hill is dog-friendly.
The decking area outside Hazel yurt © Kip Hideaways
Worthing beach © David S
What is there to do?
Titch Hill is the sort of place that demands you slow down. If, after a tasting at its winery, you want to venture out, then head towards one of the nearby beaches such as Lancing or Worthing for a dip or a bracing walk depending on what time of year you visit. There are plenty of walking trails, so ask the hosts for their favourite routes. Arundel and Brighton are also a short drive away. Nutbourne Vineyard is 35-minutes in the car and well worth a visit for a tour and a glass of wine.
Can I cook when I’m there?
Yes, but not extensively. The barn has an oven, induction hob and an air fryer, while the yurts have air fryers, induction hob and kettles. You can also order a delicious hamper full of local produce. Deliveroo is available, but you will have to meet the driver at the top of the hill as the lanes are private property.
How much is it?
Downs Barn is priced between £170 – £230 and the yurts from £160 – £220.
Anything else I should know?
The yurts are a 10-minute walk from the barn, which is ideal if you want to feel as if you have the place to yourselves, but might not suit larger groups. Also, restaurants, pubs and bars are all a drive away, so you’ll need to stock up on provisions before hunkering down for the weekend.
Lead image: © Kip Hideaways
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