With three villages, hidden sandy beaches and wind-swept cliffs dotted with lone churches, Folegandros is a tiny Cycladic Island that still feels untouched compared to the archipelago’s major islands.
Home to just 600 residents in the off-season, Folegandros is as rocky and surreal as its Cycladic neighbours. Sikinos and lunar-like Milos aren’t too far off, with party-hard Mykonos and Paros slightly further afield. Though Folegandros isn’t as top-secret as it used to be, the island’s lack of an airport or cruise links makes it more of a journey to get to. Tourist numbers reach up to 50,000 in the summer months, which pales in comparison to Santorini’s 2.4 million visitors per year.
The history of Folegandros is as complex as its counterparts, with Venetian conquests and tales as long as time. To get there, it can take anywhere from an hour to three hours from Santorini by ferry, or 45 minutes by speedboat.
With a stay at Gundari, cumbersome ferries are a thing of the past. Instead, the hotel’s sleek Rafnar 45 picks you up from Santorini’s Ammoudi Bay – the fancy port, where the other speedboats are – and whisks you away in style like a VIP. If the northerly meltemi winds are playing up, let’s just say you’re in for a wild ride across the Aegean, which sets the tone for an exhilarating start to your stay.
The Vibe
Tucked away down the end of a gravelly path, Gundari’s secluded location sets the scene for an off-grid hideaway. It’s high up and completely remote – save for a lone church in the distance – and suspended on the slope of a hill. The stone-walled exterior of the building slots so seamlessly into the arid surroundings, it’s almost camouflage from a distance, emerging like a mirage in the midday heat.
On arrival, the equestrian brown-and-beige colour palette inside gives off the feel of a chic safari-style ranch, said to be inspired by the colours of the surrounding natural landscape. It’s not your regular hotel lobby, but rather an aesthetically pleasing space built for lingering and perusing at check-in, where you’ll find retro touches like a vinyl record player. Rifle through an eclectic mix of international and contemporary artists, from Pomplamoose to Portishead.
Though the record player is off limits for now, there are plans to transform the lobby into a listening room for guests to pause and linger some more. There’s also a cabinet full of contemporary works of fiction by the likes of Coco Mellors and Deborah Levy that guests are welcome to borrow during their stay.
The Rooms
Wander a short distance from the main lobby and restaurant to find 27 rooms surrounded by lavender and silky wildflowers. In consistency with the lobby, first impressions of the rooms may make you think of an upscale safari lodge from the earthy colour palette and doorstep access to nature’s bounty. But instead of elephants and giraffes, early morning risers will wake to a gaggle of long-haired mountain goats frolicking through the vegetation, which is both a comedic and uplifting way to start the day as they graze and roam freely.
The in-room Klipsch speakers are a personal touch, referencing the lobby’s record player and Pill and Giblin speakers – an Australian brand that specialises in high-performance speakers for listening bars and live performances. Each room comes with a private terrace and pool, which is more for dipping than swimming laps. Cool off and flop on one of the comfy loungers with a summer read and the Aegean before you. Select rooms come with a sunshine-warmed al fresco shower that’s quite a novelty to use with the sun on your back and the blue skies above – not a cloud in sight.
Food + Drink
Head to Orizon’s pretty patio for dinner, Gundari’s contemporary Greek restaurant. Here you’ll be treated to recipes and dishes typical of the island. Feast on plates of kalasouna – small crispy pies stuffed with spinach and mizithra local cheese – paired with grilled sea bass or red snapper and a bottle of fresh white wine. The lemony fisherman’s soup known as kakavia has a healing quality to it, served with saffron and chunks of fish alongside a warm batch of bread.
Breakfast takes place on the other side of the restaurant by the communal infinity pool. Start your day with a small bowl of honey-drizzled Greek yoghurt topped with walnuts; for something more substantial, the kagianas (scrambled eggs) comes with chopped bread prepared by the island’s new Italian bakery. Coffee is just as crucial to the Gundari experience, as you’ll discover at breakfast. Described by Larriera as a “coffee barista dream machine”, the hotel’s La Marzocco GB5 was handpicked for its high-end spec as much as the Coffee Republic beans, which are sourced from a Greek craft roaster.
Come evening, the family-run restaurants of Chora come alive with locals and visitors sharing mezze and carafes of white wine. Start with Chic in the centre of town, a stylish taverna with a standout green-and-white exterior. The menu features homegrown vegetables and traditional recipes that require patience to prepare, including yemista (rice stuffed peppers) and hearty plates of moussaka which seemed particularly popular.
The Little Extras
Morning movement is encouraged at Gundari, where you’ll find a boutique gym and fitness area. Start your day with a guided Pilates class or hatha yoga; a gentle style of yoga that matches the island’s laid-back rhythm. Classes take place outside, surrounded by the plot’s fragrant lavender plants and fig trees that rustle in the breeze. More of a gym person? Though the space isn’t huge, you’ll find an impressive range of equipment, including a few benches, a set of dumbbells, a TRX zone, two treadmills and cable machines in practically new condition. Pair your phone to the gym’s Klipsch speaker for extra motivation.
The hotel’s subterranean spa feels tucked away, complete with three separate treatment rooms and a generous spa menu. Some treatments begin with an optional Greek Herbalist Immunity drink, a syrup and fizzy tonic that tastes like a refreshing kombucha. Opt for the signature massage, which uses multiple weighted blankets and warm towels to melt, soothe and destress your muscles in ways you didn’t know were possible.
The To-Do List
Days in Folegandros revolve around slow mornings, elongated mealtimes and hikes to wild beaches. Or you can skip the hikes altogether and take Gundari’s swish speedboat for a spin on a beach-hopping tour of the island. As you’re whisked across the Aegean, Agali beach appears on the horizon, a fantastic, no-frills family-friendly beach home to a few rustic tavernas and not much else. The speedboat is small and nippy enough to swerve through empty coves and beaches lined with small fisherman huts. Bring an umbrella for shade and be sure to go for a swim in the cerulean waters.
Back on the boat, Sikinos is only a 30- to 40-minute trip from Folegandros. Arriving at Manalis Winery reveals a surprisingly green landscape cloaked in lush fields and vineyards. Stop by for dinner at sunset and sample soupy bowls of chickpeas and rice paired with the winery’s own exquisite Assyrtiko. A bottle of the Sikoinos Rosé was just as delectable, a light rosé made for balmy summer evenings much like the one we enjoyed. Standing at an altitude of 400 metres, the winery’s jaw-dropping sunsets will keep you here until night falls and the stargazing begins.
At sunset, make your way to Folegandros’ photogenic Chora for drinks and dinner as the light softens. Boutique stores line the labyrinthine streets, selling jewellery, ceramics and unique gift ideas for taking home. Zig-zag your way to the town’s Panagia church, which sits high uphill with some of the best sunset views on the island, revealing an outline of Sifnos in the distance. What never gets old is the way the light shifts and blankets the whitewashed houses of Chora, which transform from stark white to a cinematic pink, like putting on sunglasses or a rose-tinted lens for a fleeting moment.
The island’s sunsets, wild beaches and relaxed way of life are enough to make you want to keep coming back. “Folegandros is like glue” we’re told time and time again – and with Gundari’s new spa and beach-style restaurant on the way, the island’s pull feels even stronger.
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