Carla Sersale has spent most of her adult life living in the Amalfi Coast’s jewel, the vertical village of Positano. Since meeting her husband Antonio in 1993, she has decided to call this wondrous corner of the world home. Alongside her son Francesco, this is their insider’s guide.
Positano is home to the family hotel Le Sirenuse. Before Positano became the renowned tourist destination as we know it today, it was a seemingly forgotten town. Because it was too far from nearby Italian cities, many people avoided it. The Sersale family, however, found it a wonderful seaside refuge to escape the scorching heat in the city. And following the war, it became a haven for the family and officials passing by. Many of these officials returned with their families after the war, as Positano had spoken to them as it does to many more. As such, the idea of a hotel began.
Founded in 1951 by the Sersale siblings Anna, Franco, Paolo, and Aldo, originally from Naples, the hotel has become a sanctuary for travelers seeking the dolce far niente lifestyle. From its mosaic pool, where you can bask all day, to its new beach club, Le Sirenuse Mare, the Sersales welcome you in style.
Here, continuing the family legacy, Carla and Francesco share their address book that locals only would know, from the best time to visit to how to enjoy the Amalfi lemon.
Positano is one of the most photographed places on earth, yet locals see something entirely different from tourists. What does Positano look like through your eyes?
Positano is undeniably beautiful – both locals and tourists can agree on that. I’ve lived here for 34 years, yet every morning, I still find myself pausing to admire the view from my window.
Photo credit: Stefan Giffthaler
The town has a reputation for being crowded, expensive, and slightly chaotic. What’s your honest answer to someone who asks, is it still worth it?
Positano is a small vertical village, so of course it has moments of great energy, especially in the height of summer. But that is also part of life in a place that has inspired people for generations.
The key is not to rush it. Stay long enough to find its rhythm, wake up early, spend time on the sea, linger over lunch, and allow the day to unfold rather than trying to do everything at once. When experienced that way, Positano is still completely magical – not only worth visiting, but unforgettable.
Are there corners or viewpoints in Positano that even regular visitors never find? The places you’d take a friend who’s already been three times?
In the summer, take a boat and follow the coastline. Along the way, you’ll discover dramatic rocks, hidden grottoes, tiny islands, and secluded coves stretching all the way to Amalfi. And once you arrive, stop for an ice cream at Pasticceria Pansa in the main square, just beneath the cathedral’s steep staircase.
Photo credit: Stefan Giffthaler
When is the best time to visit Positano?
It really depends on the kind of trip you’re looking for. If you want to stay in Positano while exploring the surrounding area – including Pompeii, Ravello, Amalfi, and beyond – then April, May, September, and October are ideal. But if your perfect holiday means long days on a boat or relaxing by the pool, then June, July, and August are the best months to visit.
Is there a time of day in Positano that belongs to the locals?
Before the day fully begins, the bars open their doors for cappuccinos and cornetti, and locals gather for coffee, conversation, and the rhythm of daily life. In Italy, bars are more than just places to grab a drink – especially in the morning, they are part of the country’s social fabric.
Walk us through a perfect Positano morning. Where do you go for your first coffee, and do you take it standing at the bar or sitting down (and does it matter)?
I must confess, I always prefer to enjoy my breakfast seated on the terrace of Le Sirenuse. From there, the pyramid of the village rises before me, glowing in the soft morning light, while the sea feels almost magical. I also love our breakfast buffet and the quiet moments of pure bliss it creates. Before the day begins, it gives me the energy – and the peace – to nourish my soul.
Photo credit: Stefan Giffthaler
Is The Path of the Gods hike something you can recommend? And if someone does it, what should they pack, and where should they end up for lunch?
The Path of the Gods is one of the most spectacular walks on the coast. It begins in Agerola, high above Amalfi, and ends in Nocelle, a tiny village perched above Positano, with extraordinary views almost the entire way.
I would recommend doing it in spring or autumn, or very early in the morning during summer, when the light is beautiful and the walk feels more peaceful. Wear proper shoes, bring water, a hat, and something light to cover your shoulders if the sun is strong.
At the end, if you still have energy, continue from Nocelle to Montepertuso – it is a wonderfully scenic stretch – and stop for lunch at Donna Rosa, known for its homemade pastas, or Il Ritrovo, famous for its spaghetti ai pomodorini.
If you’re not eating at La Sponda, where are you eating in Positano? The place you go when you want to feel like yourself.
Go to Da Vincenzo for some of the best traditional cuisine in town. It’s a true local favourite, and you will not be disappointed.
A favourite of mine is Da Adolfo, reachable only by boat, which already makes it feel like a secret. Is it still the kind of place you’d send someone who wants to feel like they’ve found something?
Da Adolfo is simply divine. The experience begins the moment you step onto the little gozzo boat with the red fish painted on its mast – a charming ride that already feels like part of the adventure. Laurito Beach is small, welcoming, and wonderfully unpretentious. Children play in the water or leap from the little rock beside the rickety wooden pier, while Italian sunbathers stretch out on simple aluminum loungers scattered across the pebbles, determined to return home deeply sun-kissed. There is a distinct 1970s atmosphere here, perhaps because so little has changed over the years. Then Sergio, the owner, greets you with a warm smile and invites you into his restaurant, where you will enjoy one of the most memorable meals of your life. It really is as simple as that.
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Franco’s Bar at Le Sirenuse is the classic sunset drink. But where’s the sunset drink that isn’t Franco’s Bar?
I am probably not the most impartial person to ask. For me, Franco’s is still the place – the view, the light, the atmosphere at that hour are very hard to replace.
As we like to say on the door: ‘Be There or Be Square’.
The Amalfi lemon is almost its own religion here. How can we use it beyond limoncello?
Spaghetti al Limone is wonderfully simple. Start with the classic pasta recipe of garlic, red chili pepper, and olive oil. Then, just before serving, add a little lemon juice – but above all, plenty of zest from the sfusato amalfitano, the local Amalfi lemon that gives the dish its unmistakable fragrance and freshness. And when you eat it, do so with gusto.
Spaghetti alla Nerano is a classic on the menu at Le Sirenuse Mare. Is it the dish that best captures the spirit of this stretch of coastline? What makes it so hard to replicate anywhere else?
The secret begins with the zucchini, which must be small, delicate, and never watery – just like the ones found along the Amalfi Coast in summer. They are deep-fried in olive oil and then set aside. Meanwhile, the spaghetti are cooked and quickly tossed with two or three grated cheeses and a little pasta water, which should come together into a silky, creamy sauce. That is the real challenge: it is very easy to end up with a clump of cheese on one side and oily pasta on the other. But when the balance is right, the result is extraordinary. At that point, the fried zucchini are folded back in, along with fresh basil and another touch of Parmigiano. At Le Sirenuse Mare, we finish the dish with raw prawns, whose sweetness adds one final layer of delicacy and flavour.
Positano is famously stair-heavy. What are your packing essentials? And the best dress code?
Keep it simple. Flat sandals and a light dress are perfect for daytime in Positano, where comfort and ease always feel elegant. In the evening, you can indulge in a pair of high heels – provided, of course, that you plan to stay at your hotel for dinner rather than wander through the town’s steep streets and stairways.
Carla, from the Emporio perspective, what are the two or three pieces that belong in every Positano suitcase? Things that effortlessly work from the beach to aperitivo?
For Positano, I always believe in packing lightly, but beautifully. A printed caftan is essential – something you can wear over a swimsuit during the day, then with sandals and earrings for aperitivo. I would also bring an easy cotton skirt or dress, something light enough for the heat but elegant enough for dinner.
The pieces should never feel too constructed. Positano is romantic, but also very physical – there are stairs, boats, sun, salt, and long evenings. The best clothes are the ones that move naturally through all of that.
Positano’s sandal-makers are legendary, the idea of sitting down and having a pair made in front of you is almost mythic. Is that still a real experience?
Absolutely. There are many boutiques and artisan shops throughout town, each with its own distinct style and personality. Part of the fun is wandering through Positano’s little streets, discovering them one by one, and choosing the sandals that feel most like your own.
Where do you shop for ceramics in Positano? The hand-painted plates and tiles are everywhere, but where do you find the really authentic options?
The wonderful thing about ceramics in Positano is that they are all authentic in their own way. The hand-painted plates and tiles you see throughout town are traditionally made in Vietri sul Mare, the historic ceramics village near Salerno at the far end of the Amalfi Coast. Much like shopping for sandals, the pleasure lies in exploring the different boutiques and workshops until you discover the pieces that truly speak to you. Every shop has its own aesthetic, and with so many colours, patterns, and designs to choose from, some will naturally resonate with you more than others.
Photo credit: Lauren Bamford
Francesco, you’ve spoken about Emporio evolving beyond “resortwear” into a broader way of living and dressing. What does an Emporio Sirenuse life look like beyond the wardrobe?
For us, Emporio Sirenuse has never been only about clothes for a holiday. It began in Positano, and of course it carries that sense of lightness and escape, but over time it has become a broader way of living and dressing – one shaped by travel, beauty, craftsmanship, and the Mediterranean.
The wardrobe, the ceramics, the home pieces, even the way we think about colour and print all belong to the same world. A dress, a plate, a tablecloth, or an embroidered skirt should all carry the same feeling: something refined but never rigid, joyful but never loud, rooted in craft and made to be lived with.
With our home collections, we wanted people who love Le Sirenuse to bring a little of that atmosphere into their own homes – not as a souvenir, but as part of daily life.
Emporio Sirenuse carries pieces rooted in Mediterranean artisanship. For someone who can only buy one thing – one object that will always remind them of this place – what would you point them toward?
It is difficult to choose just one, because Emporio has always been about building a world rather than creating a single souvenir. But I would probably point someone toward either one of our printed cotton caftans or one of our ceramic plates.
The caftans carry the lightness, colour, and ease of Positano – they immediately bring you back to long summer days by the sea. The ceramics do something similar at home. They bring the spirit of Le Sirenuse to the table: art, craft, colour, and the pleasure of gathering.
Both, in different ways, capture what Emporio Sirenuse is about: beauty that lives beyond the moment of travel.
Are there artisans or ateliers in the lanes around Positano that are worth seeking out?
Yes – there are still remarkable artisans along the Amalfi Coast whose work is absolutely worth seeking out. Two ceramists I especially admire are Paolo Sandulli, in Praiano, and Lucio Liguori, whose studio is in Raito, near Vietri sul Mare. You can also find some of Lucio Liguori’s extraordinary vases and bowls at Emporio Sirenuse, where his pieces beautifully reflect the artistic soul of the coast.
What’s your ideal boat day?
My ideal boat day begins around 11 in the morning, when the light is already bright and the sea has turned that unmistakable shade of blue. I would spend a few hours finding the perfect place for a swim – either along the coastline or near the beautiful Li Galli islands. After that, I would stop for lunch at Le Sirenuse Mare or at Lo Scoglio in Nerano, both perfect places to linger over a long seaside meal. Then, slowly, I would make my way back at sunset, watching the coastline glow pink in the fading light – which is, perhaps, the most beautiful moment of all.
On Le Sirenuse Mare, I understand Antonio spent many years searching for the right spot for a beach club. What does it take to find the perfect beach spot?
Finding the perfect beach spot takes patience – and a little luck. Antonio searched for many years before discovering the place that would eventually become Le Sirenuse Mare. But the moment he saw it, he immediately understood its potential. Time proved him right. Some places possess a rare kind of magic from the very beginning, and all they need is someone with the vision – and the patience – to recognize it.
The boat ride to the beach club is described as part of the experience itself. Is arrival part of the design?
Absolutely. Arrival is very much part of the experience. Reaching Le Sirenuse Mare by boat creates a gentle transition between the energy of Positano and the slower rhythm of the beach club. The ride itself becomes a moment to exhale: the coastline unfolding beside you, the scent of the sea, the sound of the water against the boat. By the time guests arrive, they already feel removed from the ordinary pace of the day. In that sense, the journey is not simply transportation – it is the beginning of the atmosphere, and very much part of the design of the experience itself.
There are three bars at Mare, each with a different design and mood. Can you walk us through a perfect day, where do you begin, where do you end up, and what are you drinking?
A perfect day at Le Sirenuse Mare begins slowly, just after arriving by boat, with something light and refreshing – perhaps a glass of chilled wine or a citrusy cocktail – while you settle into the rhythm of the place.
By lunchtime, the mood becomes livelier. That is the moment for a long meal overlooking the water, with a crisp white wine, seafood, and the feeling that the afternoon could stretch on forever.
Later, as the light softens, I would move up to Dolce Far Niente, on the upper terrace in front of the Emporio Sirenuse boutique, for something sweet: a homemade gelato in a cone, or a granita topped with cream. It is the perfect ending to a day by the sea – slow, beautiful, and completely unrushed.
The first Emporio Sirenuse flagship outside Positano sits at Le Sirenuse Mare. What does it mean to put the brand in that setting, where fashion literally sits alongside architecture, ceramics and the sea?
Placing the first Emporio Sirenuse flagship outside Positano at Le Sirenuse Mare felt completely natural, because the brand has always been about more than fashion alone. It is about a way of living – shaped by beauty, craftsmanship, light, colour, and the rhythm of the Mediterranean.
At Mare, the clothes and objects exist in dialogue with everything around them: the architecture, the ceramics, the sea, the garden, the food, and the pace of the day itself. A dress, a caftan, or a ceramic piece no longer feels like an isolated object; it becomes part of a larger atmosphere.
That is what makes the setting meaningful. People are not only shopping – they are entering the world that inspired the collections in the first place.
Writers, artists, and film-makers have been coming to Positano for a century. Steinbeck wrote about it, Picasso painted here, everyone from Grace Kelly to today’s creative set has passed through. What is it about this particular place that keeps drawing creative people?
I think what draws them is difficult to explain rationally. Positano has an atmosphere that feels suspended between reality and imagination. The landscape is dramatic and intimate at the same time; and life here moves slowly, so daydreaming is plentiful. Creative people are often searching for places that awaken the senses and quiet the noise of everyday life. Positano does both. The changing light on the sea, the vertical architecture of the village, the scent of lemon trees and salt air. And perhaps there is also something timeless about the town. While the world changes constantly, Positano still offers moments that feel untouched, and that feeling can be deeply inspiring.
The concept of dolce far niente – the sweetness of doing nothing – is central to Italian coastal life. Is it something you can teach a visitor, or does it have to find them?
I do not think dolce far niente can truly be taught. You can create the conditions for it, but in the end, it has to find you. Most visitors arrive with an instinct to do more, see more, plan more. Then, little by little, they begin to understand that not every moment needs to be productive in order to be meaningful. That, to me, is the real sweetness of doing nothing. It is not idleness, but a way of fully inhabiting the present moment – and the Amalfi Coast, with its beauty and slower rhythm, has a wonderful way of guiding people toward that feeling.
What’s the one thing you wish every guest understood before they arrived – not a practical tip, but something about how to be in Positano?
I wish every guest understood that Positano is not a place to conquer, but a place to surrender to. You cannot experience it properly with too much urgency. The beauty of Positano is in allowing yourself to be carried by the rhythm of the day: the morning light, the boat ride, the long lunch, the swim, the walk back up the steps, the evening drink as the sky changes colour. The less you try to control it, the more it gives you.
Photo credits: Stefan Giffthaler and Lauren BamfordÂ
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