I was in my early twenties, working crazy hours in a Soho PR agency and spending the rest of my hours (and tiny salary) on late nights and parties, when Elizabeth Gilbert’s memoir Eat, Pray, Love was published. Like millions of women across the world, I lapped it up.
From that moment on, her spiritual chapter became a kind of blueprint for self-discovery: yoga mats unfurled in studio corners, a retreat in Bali, a Bikram obsession that got me through my first broken heart, the occasional January vegan detox, and plenty of earnest self-reflection journalling. It was emphatically not dreams of a five-star resort in Mauritius.
Yet, here I was, two decades later, exhausted from a particularly relentless stretch of work. What I needed wasn’t enlightenment. I was craving something far simpler: a new environment to soothe my senses, someone else looking after me for a change, and waking up to the sound of the sea. I was craving solo luxury. Proper, unashamed luxury. The kind that asks nothing of you except that you show up, your bags are whisked away, and that’s that.
So, Mauritius – a tropical island in the middle of the Indian Ocean – seemed to fit the bill. More specifically, the five-star LUX* Grand Baie.
It would be easy to dismiss Mauritius as a honeymoon destination: turquoise lagoons, powder-soft sand, couples holding hands at golden hour. All true, all very beautiful. But the island’s reality goes far deeper. Shaped by centuries of migration, trade and a complex colonial history (Mauritius only gained independence from Britain in 1968; before the Brits, it was colonised by the Dutch and the French), Mauritius is home to a rich blend of Indian, African, Chinese and Creole cultures. A place where languages overlap, religions coexist, and the food alone is reason enough to visit. It is a feast for the senses and, for someone arriving tired and depleted, seemed the perfect destination to help me refill my cup.
The Vibe
You arrive at LUX* Grand Baie to the sound of water. A massive, sculptural water feature greets you at the front of the hotel and beyond it, as seen from the elevated lobby, the Indian Ocean opens out in a sweep of impossible blue. It sets the tone immediately: at this hotel, you are never far from water, whether that is a pool – this hotel has four, a fountain, the spa or the sea itself. Unlike many Mauritian resorts whose interiors lean into a more traditional plantation-style aesthetic – these include other LUX* properties – LUX Grand Baie* feels much more architectural and contemporary. Designed by Mauritian architect Jean-François Adam, who grew up in Grand Baie itself, the resort takes inspiration from local sailing boats and the rhythms of the ocean. The design of the main lobby and shared hotel spaces is all heavy wood, dark rattan and steel staircases, softened by a curated overgrowth of tropical greenery and water features. This is a glamorous – and I would go as far as to say sexy – hotel.
Walking into the foyer after a red-eye flight, I was momentarily too distracted by the electric blues of the lagoon to take much else in. Coffee was needed. Enter Maison LUX*, the hotel group’s in-house European café, which is right there in the lobby, serving a selection of coffees from across the world.
The Rooms
My Junior Suite was on the ground floor and immediately felt bright, spacious and easy to settle into. Unlike the more dramatic public spaces, the rooms are softer and more homely, with muted tones and a sense of calm that makes you exhale almost instantly. The bathroom deserves a proper mention. It was enormous, with double sinks, a roomy walk-in shower and a touch that I loved: a huge freestanding bath in its own separate space. The bedroom opened onto a generous private terrace with sunbeds, overlooking a pool, and beyond that, the beach and ocean.
The Facilities
Soon after arriving, I threw on a bikini and headed straight for the sea. This was where my reset began: in the water.
I once read a quote by the Danish author Karen Blixen that says, “The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea,” and I agree, especially the last part. My shoulders drop just looking at the sea. And this vista was a stunner. I perched up on a sunbed and pulled out my journal. All Mauritian beaches are public, but you don’t really register this at LUX* Grand Baie (or any of the LUX* resorts I visited to be honest), as it felt like part of the hotel, and a stunning part at that, around a sheltered turquoise lagoon and just slightly out to sea, coral with hundreds of fish to spot and if you get lucky turtles. I got lucky.
Guests have access to a long list of complimentary watersports, from paddleboarding and kayaking to snorkelling, glass-bottom boat trips and waterskiing. I love snorkelling; the peace you feel, head in the water, just floating around like in an aquarium, was my meditation time. Families are more than welcome here, and there are excellent kids’ club facilities, but the overall mood felt grown-up and fairly chilled. Couples or groups of adult friends would clearly have a brilliant time here but, as a solo traveller, I also found a lot to love in the space and facilities the hotel offered.
Aside from the generous pool just outside my room, there are three others around the resort. The pool beside Beach Rouge, the all-day dining restaurant, has the most overt beach-club feel: red and white striped loungers, a swim-up bar, and a soundtrack of Balearic-style beats that encourages the sort of afternoon where rosé is involved. Had I been travelling with girlfriends or a partner, I imagine I would have spent quite a bit of time in this one. As it was, I was looking for something more elevated, so I headed up to Bisou, the rooftop adults-only pool and bar area.
Up here, the infinity pool takes up half Bisou’s rooftop space and is blue on blue, looking out over the ocean beyond, surrounded by greenery to give the feeling you are tucked away somewhere special. Then there is the fourth pool, tucked away at the LUX* ME Spa – itself a mix of indoor and outdoor spaces, with a quiet pool, relaxation areas and a DIY foot reflexology path designed to revive tired feet. Indoors, the hydrothermal bath journey moves you through steam, sauna, cold plunges and sensory showers. By the time I emerged from this warm, soothing cocoon back into the sunshine, the London chill had been thoroughly removed from my bones. This, I thought, wrapped in a towel and back on a sunbed, is the converted yogi’s version of enlightenment.
I had packed multiple gym kits. This was, in theory, going to be a physical reset as much as a mental one. Full disclosure: the jet lag and the comfort of the bed largely won. I made it to the gym once, but once was enough to confirm that LUX* Grand Baie is a dream for anyone more disciplined than me. There are two dedicated fitness spaces, a Pilates and stretch studio, a cycle area and a full activity timetable. Best of all is the rooftop fitness space, cleverly making use of the hotel’s design with two running tracks, should you get the burst of energy I was lacking.
I did, however, make it to a sunset yoga class one evening over at SALT of Palmar, another property in the LUX* collection. Adult-only and designed by Jean-François Adam in collaboration with the brilliantly colourful Camille Walala, SALT has an entirely different energy: more playful, more communal, more rooted in mindful living. The class overlooking the ocean was led by a particularly committed yogi extolling the virtues of clean diets and disciplined habits. I followed along, nodded when required, and did not have the heart to mention that our next stop involved rum tasting and an indulgent dinner. But balance, after all, comes in many forms.
The Food + Drink
LUX* Grand Baie takes its name from the nearby harbour town, which is one of the most bustling parts of Mauritius, known for its water sports and popular with tourists and locals alike for its array of bars and restaurants, but as a solo traveller seeking out a more relaxing experience, I opted for the in-hotel dining options on this stay. Breakfast at Beach Rouge is served with the ocean directly in front of you, which I always adore when on holiday. The spread is generous, as you would expect from a five-star resort. Though I am usually more of a fruit-and-coffee person than a buffet grazer, the made-to-order crêpes looked dangerously appealing.
Dinner on my first evening was at Ai KISU, the hotel’s Japanese-inspired restaurant. All dark woods and dramatic lighting, with views of the hotel’s sunken water features, you once again get this sense of being hidden away. Inside, an open kitchen cooks over fire, while the menu moves through sushi and sashimi, dim sum, roasted duck – all light but flavourful dishes that felt exactly right after a day of doing very little beyond staring at the sea. The stand-out, however, was dessert: the Caviar Illusion, created by Executive Pastry Chef Simon Pacary. A theatrical, modern twist on a lemon tart featuring velvety lemon cream and olive oil-infused croutons, designed to look like caviar and served on a cloud of dry ice. The following day, lunch on the rooftop at Walima by Bisou brought a completely different mood. The Lebanese and Moroccan-inspired menu leans into mezze and slow-cooked comfort, but with enough lighter options to keep things feeling balanced. One touch I loved was the Moroccan hand-washing ritual on arrival, someone gently pouring warm water over your hands before you eat. There it was again, that recurring feeling of someone just looking after you – that feeling of being wrapped in luxury, even bare-shouldered up on the roof.
The To-Do List
Take a beekeeping tour
At nearby Grand Gaube hotel, take part in the Hug Me Honey experience. On paper, this is a beekeeping tour and a honey-themed lunch, but the reality is far more charming. Grand Gaube is home to around 240,000 bees across its working hives, and being guided through their world- the structure of the hive, the way local flora changes flavour, the sheer quiet industry of it all- was unexpectedly absorbing. There was also a visit to Zardin Lontan, the kitchen garden, and the Bee Honest Bar, where fresh juices and honey-based drinks can be prepared by the hotel guests themselves.
Enjoy a catamaran tour of the northern isles
One of the best ways to experience Mauritius is from the water. Catamaran cruises to the northern isles, sailing to Coin de Mire, Flat Island and Îlot Gabriel, are easily arranged from the north coast, with stops for snorkelling in shallow lagoons where you’ll spot plenty of tropical fish and, if you’re lucky, turtles. With turquoise water in every direction, it’s an effortlessly glam way to spend a day on the Indian Ocean.
Hike Le Morne Brabant
Le Morne Brabant
For those happy to travel slightly further afield for an adventure, Le Morne Brabant is one of Mauritius’ most striking landscapes. Rising up dramatically on the island’s south-west coast, this UNESCO World Heritage peak is not only naturally stunning, but it also has huge cultural significance for the island as it is seen as a powerful symbol of the fight against slavery. Whether you choose to enjoy the view from below or climb with a guide (you need a license to reach some parts), it is one of the more iconic symbols of Mauritius, so worth the effort to visit. Once you have taken in the vista, you can head to a nearby hotel such as LUX* Le Morne for a post-hike refreshment.
Explore the sugar plantations
The sugar trade is deeply woven into Mauritius’ history. While the industry is no longer as dominant, sugarcane fields still stretch across much of the island. For those wanting to know more about their role in Mauritius’ colonial past, you can spend a guided few hours learning how sugar has shaped the island’s culture, trade and even its cuisine. It is a great way to understand Mauritius beyond the beaches, and there are plenty of bookable tours across the island. L’Aventure du Sucre, a popular sugar museum at Beau Plan, is a safe bet.
Take a pottery class
Take a pottery class at Gaia
Grand Gaube’s pottery studio is a small, light-filled space where you are handed an apron, shown your wheel and can then set about making your own pottery. I opted for a bowl. I am not, it turns out, a natural. But there is something about clay that demands your full attention. Lose focus, and it collapses; stay present, and it begins to take shape. For a couple of hours, hands messy and phone firmly out of reach, I found myself doing something entirely new and completely absorbed. It was a life lesson I promised myself I would remember back in the UK: permission to detach and play.
Head into Grand Baie after dark
When you’re done with a day of poolside lounging, take a taxi into Grand Baie, one of Mauritius’ busier beach towns, which comes especially alive once the temperature drops. Start at the local bazaar, where stalls spill over with local keepsakes such as spices, jewellery and linen, before enjoying a sundowner at one of the many waterfront bars as the sun goes down. Then, if the bazaar’s street food hasn’t already tempted you, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from, serving up a variety of cuisines befitting Mauritius’ diverse past.
The Verdict
Throughout the week, this trip had asked very little of me. There was no discipline, no reinvention and – despite the multiple gym kits I’d optimistically packed – I made it to the gym only once. Instead, I enjoyed the heat of the sun, the colours of the island, the sound of the ocean, the tastiest food and enjoyed someone else looking after me, thanks to the staff at the resort.
So, ironically, this trip really did help me reset my idea of what a reset needs to be. I still love yoga and detoxes, but it reminded me that wellness can be much simpler. I slowed down, switched off and lived in the moment, trying to commit as many beautiful snapshots of Mauritius to memory as I could, and the end result was that I came home feeling more refreshed than I had in a very long time.
Lead image: The LUX Collective
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