Has there ever been a bigger year for the white shirt as the past 12 months?

It all began with Chanel’s spring/summer 2026 show, in which Matthieu Blazy styled an oversized crisp white shirt over a black skirt and two-tone pumps (pictured below). It was relaxed, but pulled-together and quickly seen on Oscar winner Jessie Buckley, who wore the full head-to-toe look. Nicole Kidman and Margot Robbie styled theirs with jeans, and Tilda Swinton opted for a salmon pink version. The shirt in question was from Charvet, a Paris-based heritage shirtmaker bought by Chanel in July, and a favourite of Sofia Coppola who swears by its button-downs when she’s directing. Charvet shirts also appeared at Blazy’s first cruise show in Biarritz in April. Since then, Toteme, Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Phoebe Philo have all launched varying versions. The white shirt is the most fashionable item you probably already own.

Chanel cruise 2026

Chanel spring/summer 2026

White shirts as a quick route to low-key elegance is hardly new. Its eclectic fanbase – Marilyn Monroe, Jane Birkin, Patti Smith, Diana, Princess of Wales and Jennifer Lawrence included – is a testament to the depth of its appeal. Everyone wears theirs slightly differently. Sharon Stone was arguably the first to adopt it as an eveningwear option when she wore a Gap style with a Vera Wang skirt to the 1998 Oscars. Carolyn Bessette Kennedy was also an early pioneer, wearing hers with a 90s column skirt, an aesthetic that came to represent a nonchalant elegance. Patti Smith famously styled hers with an oversized suit jacket, black trousers and boots. The white shirt is a great way of showcasing your styling skills.

September is a great time for this foolproof staple because of its back-to-school energy. The trick is to go oversized; anything too fitted feels corporate. Fashion editors and stylists tend to only wear boxy versions, either worn over straight-leg jeans or tucked into high-waisted midi skirts and heels (very Chanel). Having spent the last few days at London Fashion Week, I also noticed a lot of generously-sized blue shirts, which spell Indian summer but with more polish. They were worn untucked with black straight-leg trousers and loafers, or slinky column skirts. A rolled-up sleeve puts distance between you and any strip-lighting association.

Sharon Stone wearing Carolina Herrera at the 1998 Oscars

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A post shared by Carolyn Bessette Kennedy (@carolyn_iconic)

Perhaps the reason the white shirt still holds so much power is that it suits everyone – it frames the face and sharpens the shoulders, and makes us all feel more pulled-together. It’s unusual that a style boasts a following so wide it includes Meghan Markle, Brigitte Bardot and Rihanna, but the white shirt is that rare beast.

Although the white shirt is your 2026 transitional hero, it’s also one of the most reliable pieces you can pack for any winter sun holidays. It’s incredibly breathable, especially in cotton and linen fabrications, making it ideal for warm weather, and it’s also compact – another big tick in my packing criteria. Matched only by denim shorts in its versatility and hard-working propensities, the simple classic works as a beach cover-up – think of Jean Seberg in Bonjour Tristesse – and tucked into a breezy wide-leg trouser or shorts. It also makes for a great airport style outfit, immediately smartening up tracksuit bottoms or a relaxed trouser, and you’ll actually wear it when you reach your destination. It’s ideal for city breaks too, giving a freshness to your favourite pair of jeans. The white shirt works everywhere.

Oversized Cotton Shirt, £77, & Other Stories

Pleasingly, you don’t need a Chanel budget to find a great one either. With Nothing Underneath has become a cult shirting destination among the style crowd (the boyfriend style specifically), but both Cos and & Other Stories also offer oversized classic staples that you’ll get maximum milage out of.

I have worn mine – a relaxed style from Gap like this – on the beach in Sicily, to members-only bars in West London and often to the office. When I don’t know what to wear, TWS makes me feel composed. Its simplicity is its super power, and – in an age that feels ever overwhelming and hectic – it feels serene. Who wouldn’t want a bit of that this autumn?

Lead image courtesy of With Nothing Underneath

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Ella Alexander is Citizen Femme’s fashion features editor. She started her career at the Evening Standard, and has since held senior editorial roles at Vogue, The Independent and Harper’s Bazaar, where she remains a contributing editor. She also writes for The Telegraph, Sunday Times Style, Service95 and CNN. She is an author, having co-written Dame Zandra Rhodes’ memoir, Iconic: My Life In Fashion In 50 Objects, published by Transworld in July 2024. Her favourite travel destination is Catania, Sicily’s second city.