I love Japanese food. And I love sushi. I will travel to the ends of the earth for this. I don’t generally fall for the large chain, the big name, the large statue at the entrance of a restaurant trying to resemble real Tokyo, the ‘we are trying to be authentic’ Japanese. Those places are great for cocktails and people watching, and I can be caught propping up the bar up with a Yamazaki. But when it comes to quality Japanese fayre, in the UK, you go to places like Kikuchi.
Down Hanway Street, a dank little alley behind Tottenham Court Road (which you avoid walking alone post midnight), where you will also find the original Hakkasan, step into Owner Chef Masayuki Kikuchi’s fine establishment.
This is the place where they are not preoccupied with design. White paint, wooden furniture, space for 16 covers and to the right is the sushi counter behind which Chef Kikuchi is filleting, creating, bustling, working on his small masterpieces. Don’t get me wrong, its elegant, clean, small but not cramped. You walk in, they are aware of your arrival, no name required and you are seated. Almost discreet.
I was there, specifically for the Omakase Menu. No Omakase menu is the same – the menu reflects the skill and artistic craft of the chef. Meaning ‘to entrust’ in Japanese, this really is at the heart of Kikuchi. You are entirely in the hands of the Chef.
Chef Kikuchi’s wife was serving the 7 courses, soft spoken, elegantly delivered with complete precision. The courses are paired with a tasting tray of 3 sake options, advised to drink from left to right in order of strength.
Kikuchi is famous for its raw fish and deep fried items, as well as the Sunomono, vinegared dishes, and I had my fill of all.
I started with salmon sashimi, sesame sauce and salmon roe. And indeed, it started magnificently. Followed up with mackerel wrapped in seaweed with cucumber and ponzu sauce. Outstanding.
Then came the fried goodness. And goodness is an underestimation of what was served. Deep fried seabass with pickled plum and salt truffle. Vibrant yet delicate, each bite took you on a great journey with plum and salt truffle leaving you with a mouthful of perfectly battered Seabass.
After this combination, I decided Kikuchi would become “My little secret”. Although, being a journalist with an innate inability to keep these gems to myself, this has proved to be difficult.
The sushi platter arrived, a selection of tuna, sea bream, mackerel, sea urchin and jumbo prawn. Kikuchi lived up to his reputation.
Before the final course was miso soup with jumbo prawn, and then a final platter of sashimi including otoro, squid, yellowtail, salmon roe, Japanese omelette.
The finishing touch was chestnut ice cream served with fruit, a refreshing completion to our Chef’s specially created journey. Served over the course of 90 minutes, these small bites fill you to the level of just perfection.
Japanese food is perhaps the most commendable with the level of craftsmanship and training required to really master the art. Kikuchi showed us that persistence, dedication and talent has paid off. Its well worth a visit. Over and over and over again.
Read our favourite London Japanese recommendations here!
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