As perceptions about luxury travel continue to evolve, there’s one version we can probably all agree on: the version found at the 137-year-old Hotel Metropole Monte-Carlo.
It promises: utmost discretion; champagne in your room on arrival; swanky cars at the entrance (some belonging to Formula 1 drivers); long lunches; and bottomless rosé besides the Karl Lagerfeld designed pool. This is Monaco, after all. Opulent rather than swish: “quiet luxury” has no place, and maximalism is a must.
Hotel Metropole has also long been the place for refined French gastronomy. Following in the footsteps of Joël Robuchon, Executive Chef Christophe Cussac has been working behind the scenes to bring back Les Ambassadeurs – now known as Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac – a restaurant that quickly gained the aristocracy’s seal of approval when it first opened in the 1920s. On the week of the restaurant’s launch CF checked in to experience the hotel, its new menu and the revival of this legendary location up close.
The Lowdown
Located moments from the district’s famous Casino, Hotel Metropole was originally built during the Belle Époque period towards the end of the 19th century, a period in history that has been romanticised time and time again for its brush of extravagance, artistry and excess frivolity. The decadence and hedonism of this period remain very much entrenched in the property’s DNA, but with some modern-day touches.
Boasting a long list of starry collaborations, this independently-owned hotel has seen a few facelifts since it was first established in 1886, most recently by Jacques Garcia and Didier Gomez, who masterminded the period-inspired rooms without making them feel too stuffy or traditional. Gomez also designed Yoshi, one of four restaurants at the hotel and the only Japanese restaurant on the Côte D’Azur to receive a Michelin star since 2010. Taking two years to complete, Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac is a project headed up by Cussac and his team to provide simple cuisine at its finest.
The Vibe
From the moment you turn in along the herringbone-brick driveway, a line of Bentleys and Lamborghinis set the tone. It’s a celebrity-like experience hopping out of the private transfer, practising your best bonjour while drifting through the revolving doors.
On entry, you might notice the immediate scent of Nepalese amber wafting through the air, a bespoke concoction that was created by a perfumery in Paris, before stumbling upon seasonal flower installations and an exquisite art installation in the heart of the lobby. At check-in, guests are asked to hang by the concierge in a shadowy saloon decorated with velvet sofas and low-slung chairs worthy of an Oscar Wilde novel.
The Rooms
Lavish, traditional and bathed in natural light, the uncluttered rooms at Hotel Metropole defy minimalism in favour of extravagance and ornamentation. The period-style interiors will make you feel like a member of the royal family, with sumptuous armchairs and grand pillars that stand tall on either side of the room.
Of the 125 rooms, there are 64 suites with balconies and a select few with views of the shimmering Mediterranean. Just wait until you see the mahogany and brown marble bathrooms; the massage jets, large bathtubs, double-hand basins, and Salvatore Ferragamo toiletries are sure to impress.
The Food + Drink
Following a meticulous two-year renovation, Les Ambassadeurs by Christophe Cussac has just opened its doors to the public. When we arrive for dinner, the restaurant is mainly packed with loyal locals and serious foodies who have been patiently waiting for the opening since the news was first announced. Simplicity is at the heart of Cussac’s menu, with each dish made up of three flavours. The lobster lasagne was a firm favourite, made with tarragon and spinach. Even something as simple as the mashed potato, which accompanies the French trimmed lamb cutlets, remains entrenched in memory; pureed to perfection by a designated stirrer who mixes the mash for hours on end to create its surreally-smooth texture, resembling butter at first glance. The dessert trolley is just as fun as the bread trolley, displaying every classic French tart you can think of.
For breakfast, you have two options: cooked breakfasts with all the trimmings at Les Ambassadeurs, or baskets of just-baked pastries by the pool at Odyssey. The latter was surprisingly less popular, which means you get first dibs on sunbeds before they inevitably get snapped up (usually by noon). An abundance of Jasmine-scented trees encircle the terrace and chic pool area, designed by none other than Karl Lagerfeld.
After a morning spent lounging by the pool in the hot Monaco sun, lunch at Odyssey is light and healthy. Tomatoes of all shapes and sizes precede the kale salad topped with a mild curry sauce, all sloshed down with a pale-hued rosé. For dessert, pastry wizard Patrick Mesiano has put together a superb array of coffee éclairs, colourful macarons and ornate cakes decorated with superhuman precision.
If you can manage another multi-course extravaganza, Yoshi by Chef Takeo Yamazaki is a must. Didier Gomez has created a space that feels contemporary and relaxed, blending ebony wood, stone and silk with unexpected flashes of red, orange and green. The restaurant’s famous black cod, which has been soaked for 72 hours, arrives wrapped in a delicate Japanese leaf, leaving just enough room for the sansho berries and shiso sorbet for dessert.
The Little Extras
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To top it all off, there’s a spa. Designed by veteran French architect Didier Gomez, the House of Givenchy Spa is one of three Givenchy Spas in the world, offering an exclusive menu of treatments using the brand’s skincare products. Post-treatment makeovers are optional, and use Givenchy makeup. Guests of the hotel also have access to the sauna, crystal hammam, ice fountain, and aromatherapy showers.
The To-Do List
If you can peel yourself away from the pool, the Monte Carlo Casino is a must-visit if just to take in its palatial exterior and old-world glamour. For a dose of retail therapy, the glitzy Metropole Shopping Centre is next door to the hotel, or there’s a pedestrianised shopping district laden with designer boutiques opposite the casino gardens.
Retreat to Latino Bar back at Hotel Metropole for sunset drinks, where a live band performs each night. The hotel also offers the occasional yoga retreat, a glamorous version of your average retreat packed with rejuvenating spa treatments and poolside relaxation.
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