Self-taught baker Lily Vanilli joins us for the latest instalment of The Chef’s Table.
Following the success of her market stall near Brick Lane, which Vanilli set up in 2008, the now renowned baker opened Lily Vanilli on Columbia Road in 2010. Launching a second site in Tbilisi, Georgia in 2018, today, Vanilli’s pioneering and innovative cake designs are world-renowned and instantly recognisable.
With clients including Elton John, Lady Gaga, and Madonna, amongst many others, Vanilli’s bespoke cakes are quite the crowd pleaser. The proof is in the pudding, as her latest (uber-popular) turn – a decadent, hedonistic, Regency-inspired Afternoon Tea at Theatre Royal Drury Lane – can attest.
Here, Vanilli shares her fondest food memories, favourite recipe books, and more…
How did you first get into baking?
It was a hobby to begin with, for a long time, and then when I was short of cash and work during the 2008 crash I started to sell cakes to make ends meet and started Lily Vanilli soon after.
What are some of your childhood food memories?
All my fond and significant memories of food when I was young were of baking with my Irish grandmother when we visited her in summer holidays; making Victoria sponge and soda bread, scones and jam. Beyond that, food wasn’t a big part of my life until I was much older but those memories were enough to spark a lifelong love of baking.
Who, what, or where most influenced your baking?
Definitely my grandma! She only made a few things but really well, and worked hard to perfect them, she never tired of making the same thing again and again until it was perfect. A lot of my most prized recipes are the really simple ones I spent months getting just right and it’s always worth it. Much more recently I get inspiration from people like Brooks Headley, Terri Merceica, and Rav Gill – anyone who breaks the rules and creates their own unique style, it’s always such a joy to see and keeps the industry vibrant and creative and fun.
The food that makes you happiest and why?
Steak and chips and red wine will change a mood like a magic spell. Also dumplings. It’s hard to be sad and eat dumplings.
Favourite baking gadget?
Favourite cookbook(s)?
Brooks Headley’s Fancy Desserts, Rav Gills’ Pastry Chef’s Guide. I like all of Alison Romans desserts (from both her books). La Grotta made a really lovely ice-cream recipe book a few years back. I rarely use cookbooks or recipes but I do like to have a flick through, there’s always more to learn.
Credit: Steve Ryan
What’s the one ingredient you can’t live without?
Good sugar, like Billingtons, and good chocolate, like Original beans. It makes such a difference to have good basics. Beyond that I love fresh English seasonal berries and fruit, we have so many really delicious tart currants and berries that are beautiful in desserts. That’s not really one is it? How can you choose one???
Where are the best places to shop for produce in London?
How does travel influence your baking?
It does more than anything. I’m always searching for new ideas and inspiration in baking and you can’t beat travelling to a place where they have completely different aesthetics, traditions, and staple ingredients. Every time I travel I come back with hoards of new ingredients and ideas. I have opened bakeries and baked in places as far flung as Tbilisi, Kerala, Nanjing, Mexico, and Italy and I always use local ingredients and methods and discover something completely new. Tokyo was by far the most inspiring – there were just so many weird and wonderful things I had never dreamed of or seen before.
Where are your favourite places to dine in London?
Rita’s on Lexington Street; Quo Vadis in Soho, Morito on Hackney Road; Campania right by my bakery (on Columbia Road); Brawn on Columbia Road; Brat, Jen’s cafe in Chinatown for dumplings.
What do you always avoid ordering on a menu?
What is your go-to meal at home when you’re low on time?
Pan-fried mackerel and salad.
Do you find baking therapeutic?
Advice for women thinking about starting up a business in the food or restaurant industry?
I honestly believe there’s room for anyone talented, just keep practising and building your skills, find your own style and niche. Speak to other women in the industry for support and advice, it’s generally a very friendly, mutually supportive place.
Tea at the Lane with Lily Vanilli is hosted daily at the newly restored Theatre Royal Drury Lane priced at £49pp.
Any Questions or Tips to add?