In our column, A Seat At The Bar we showcase the world’s best bars – from plush cocktail spots to dive bars, and everything in-between. This month, we’re spotlighting Larry’s at the National Portrait Gallery.
When the National Portrait Gallery closed its doors in 2020, it promised a major internal switch-up. Today, it’s set to be a dining destination as well as an artistic showcase.
Enter Larry’s, the latest in Daisy Green Collection’s ever-growing portfolio of London hotspots, and one to add to the list of London’s best gallery restaurants.
The Lowdow
When an underground vault is transformed into a cocktail bar, there’s something ‘1920s speakeasy’ about its aura. Walking through the velvet-draped curtains into Larry’s feels like uncovering a secret. It’s underneath the National Portrait Gallery in a space that was once used to store coal, and its exposed brick walls are decorated with a visually eclectic mix of over 100 striking portraits. The common thread? Every image has been handpicked to showcase a famous performer from London (think Amy Winehouse, Annie Lennox and David Bowie). There’s also a vibrant, glitter-scattered image of the Queen which breaks the mould but adds to the character.
What To Order
The cocktail menu is presented in a leather-bound book with hand-sketched images and snaps of each drink’s muse. It’s a big part of this bar’s charm and an excellent conversation starter. Recipes riff on the classics and come beautifully presented. Among the most imaginative is the Yevonde. It’s designed with blue, yellow and red spots to reference the process used by Madame Yevonde when she revolutionised colour photography in the 1970s. Food-wise, it’s bar snacks and sharing boards, but the star of the show is the lobster roll.
When To Go
After work, before the theatre, or at the weekend teamed with a wander through the gallery; Larry’s is open seven days a week.
Who To Bring
Larry’s strikes a balance between novel and elegant; there’s something for everyone here. The evening menu and large, booth-style seating are ideal for larger groups, while two-seater high tables around the bar feel more suited to date night.
The Dress Code
Understated elegance. Anything goes but making an effort won’t go to waste. Wide-leg tailored trousers and a tucked-in knit or an oversized blazer with slouchy jeans work perfectly.
The CF Tip(ple)
There’s a slanted glass roof at the back of the space so if you sit here, your table will be cast with natural light before sundown.
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Any Questions or Tips to add?