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Insider Guide To Burgundy In The Autumn

Offering unmatched countryside and some of the best wines in the country, Burgundy is an idyllic region of France prevailing sun-drenched vineyards and charming villages.

Wine connoisseur Rebecca Perry, Director and Buyer of London-based, female-founded wine importer and retailer Emile Wines, is our first port of call for all things Burgundy. Starting her career as a buyer for a long-established Burgundy importer, Rebecca, along with her sister, launched her brand with a mission to demystify the traditionally male-dominated world of fine wine.

In her guide to Burgundy, Rebecca shares the must-visit pub that only locals know about, the market stall to buy the best cheese at, and tells us where to find the best wine in the country.

The best time to visit Burgundy: 

Autumn. It is the moment of the year when the leaves turn every shade of gold and orange. Some say that this is where the name ‘Côte d’Or’ – the golden slope – comes from. It really is such a stunning time to go.

Our first pitstop should be…

La Dilettante in Beaune. Sink in with a croque monsieur and one of the best wine lists in the region.

Your favourite hotel to check-in at is…

Le Cep in Beaune. Think sumptuous, old-school glamour and the perfect cosy home after a long, cold day out in Burgundy.


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A post shared by Hôtel Le Cep 5* (@lecepbeaune)


For an early morning workout head to…

The vines. An early morning run through the golden vineyards in autumn may be the prettiest workout there is.

Where should we go for breakfast?

Head to the main square in Beaune, Place Carnot. Grab a croissant, head to any of the cafés on the square and watch the world go by.

Where can we find the best coffee?

Excellent coffee is still a bit of a challenge to find in the countryside but there is a very good coffee stall at the Beaune Saturday market (which is also a must when you’re here).

How about for a long, lazy lunch?

The long lunch is definitely an art form here, and our go-to is Le Soufflot in Meursault.


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A post shared by Le Soufflot (@lesoufflot_jeremypeze)

Your favourite restaurant in town?

Without a doubt La Lune in Beaune. It is a minuscule Korean-French restaurant with delectable food and a small but perfectly formed wine list. Sit at the counter.

And for dinner with friends?

Table du Square. Honest, delicious French food and of course, a top wine list.


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The drink to order at the bar…

Chartreuse. Always the best way to finish a meal in Burgundy.

The best place for people watching…

Place Carnot. Even when it may feel a bit touristy, all of the bars have good wine and generous plates of cheese and charcuterie which are must-haves to accompany any people watching in Burgundy.

The culture spot to rave about…

The Athenaeum bookshop. There is an unrivalled selection of wine books (in English), magazines and wine maps.

Where can I go shopping?

At the Beaune Saturday market. Make sure you head to see Alain Hess who undoubtedly has the best cheese.

For the best views head to…

Somewhere in the vines with a picnic overlooking the undulating hills of Burgundy. 


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A post shared by Beaune Tourisme (@beauneburgundy)

One place only locals know about…

Le Publican – known locally as Le Pub. The wine list would rival any Michelin restaurant but the relaxed atmosphere and unassuming exterior make this a hotbed for wild times. If the walls could talk… 

A book to read before we go?

Kermit Lynch’s Adventures on the Wine Route: A Wine Buyer’s Tour of France.

For a change of pace try…

The thermal baths and saunas in the village of Santenay.

Souvenir to take home?

A wine map or book from the Athenaeum bookshop.

In one word, Burgundy is…


A must-try spot for date night?

Le Bout du Monde. It’s laidback with lots of cosy nooks. 

The best place to treat yourself is… 

The Cook’s Atelier – a shop from a mother and daughter that has an exquisite array of cookware.

Your favourite neighbourhood(s)…

Meursault. It is probably one of the prettiest villages in Burgundy, as well as making some of the best white wines in the country. The cherry on top is the region’s best boulangerie just across the road from the village church.

Great day trips include…

Spending as much time in the cellars of the wonderful winemakers of the region.


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How should we spend the final day of our trip?

Try as much wine from Burgundy as you can. It is far more affordable and abundant at the source.

What’s your Burgundy secret?

Skip the touristy tasting rooms in the centre of town and instead go to one of the local wine shops, known as Cavistes, that are a hotbed for knowledge and undiscovered gems.

Essential items to pack? 

It is paramount to be cosy (and chic) during an autumnal trip to Burgundy. You are in and out of vineyards, cellars, wineries and restaurants, so layering and versatility is key. We love the Alex Eagle Sporting Club Cap, and you’ll never regret the ultra-cosy Raey mega puffer finished off with a cute pair of cashmere socks and our much-loved Birkenstock’s Boston Shearlings. After any visit to Burgundy, you are always happy for the notes that you have taken on all of the wines you’ve tasted, and we are never without a notebook and fountain pen.

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