Chantelle Nicholson, chef-owner of London’s Apricity holds the coveted title of being the first and only female chef to receive a Michelin Green Star, in 2023. Here, she tells us about her cooking inspirations and how to lead a more sustainable lifestyle through food.
Apricity is a word that describes the warmth of the sun in winter. It’s also the name of Chantelle Nicholson’s Mayfair restaurant, which prides itself on delivering an experience filled with conscious cooking and joyful dining.
Chantelle champions low-waste cooking and supports small-scale farmers who provide the restaurant with seasonal, fresh produce from across Britain. Though she’s a known ambassador of plant-based cooking, Chantelle’s menu is an omnivore’s dream with dishes that include Isle of Skye hand-dived scallops with elderflower quince and Essex grass-fed beef short rib with maitake mushrooms and cavolo nero.
Chantelle released her cookbook, Planted, in 2018, showcasing a myriad of low-waste, plant-based recipes, and she also added a notch on her sustainability belt this year by partnering with B-corp coffee brand illycaffè to create a host of recipes that utilise coffee – think courgettes with spiced chickpeas, miso drizzled with a coffee vinaigrette and coffee-roasted carrots with cashew cream and coriander relish.
Here, we speak to Chantelle who divulges her tips for leading a more sustainable lifestyle and tells us which country’s gastronomy has really impressed her.
When did you first realise you wanted to be a chef?
I don’t think there was ever a defining moment for me as such. I knew I adored food, and I loved working as a chef when I started out but it always felt a bit fleeting as it wasn’t my initial career path. It all happened very organically.
You grew up in New Zealand, how did this inspire your food journey?
It was the biggest catalyst for my food journey, just being surrounded by incredible, seasonal produce.
What are some of the biggest misconceptions people have about plant-based cooking?
That it will leave you hungry – and that it won’t be as delicious. These are both incorrect when vegetables are used to their full potential.
You’re largely considered as one of the most sustainable chefs in the country. Did you always strive to run your restaurants in such an eco-conscious way?
That’s very kind. I feel I have come full circle in some ways – by going back to my roots of growing up in a wonderful, plentiful country where nature reigned, it’s made me feel like I have a responsibility to value and cherish nature.
Do you have any tips for those looking to be more sustainable in their daily lives?
There are many things to consider, but above all I would say try and think of the value of food and produce – and how many people have been involved in it being in your hands, on your plate, or in your fridge. It brings about a renewed sense of respect and also a will to value it and not want to waste it.
What’s your favourite dish on the menu at Apricity right now?
That’s a tough question. I adore our butterhead lettuce dish, but for a winter warmer it would have to be the venison with elderberry – foraged in August – squash, and creamed naked oats. It’s delicious comfort food at its best, and all sourced from within the UK.
Tell us about your partnership with illycaffè:
I’ve adored illy coffee for many years. Their ethos also really aligns with mine, from their certification as a B-Corp company and range of sustainability initiatives to their regenerative farming schemes. There was a natural synergy there and creating my own, unique coffee blend with illy was a cool experience.
What’s the one ingredient you can’t live without and why?
Probably butter. It just makes everything delicious.
Is there a certain food trend that you wish would just go away?
Excessively packaged goods…
When not at your restaurant, where can we find you drinking and dining?
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With friends and family, either at home or in a local spot. I love Hicce Hart pub for a pint before heading over to the delicious Supawan Thai restaurant on Caledonian Road.
Is there an easy recipe you’d recommend for those wanting to incorporate more plants into their diets?
There are many. As long as you have some good condiments, sauces, and accompaniments, you’re set. And applying some good heat to veg to get that tasty caramelisation is key.
Where are your favourite places in the UK for foraging and finding excellent produce?
I generally forage in Hertfordshire. My family are there and they have excellent hedgerows and wide open spaces. Produce-wise, Kent and Sussex are great.
Are there any countries where you’ve had memorable food experiences?
I was recently in Thailand and the food was out of this world – spicy, fresh, and so tasty. And the local fruit was just second to none. An amazing experience.
When having friends over for supper, what’s on the table?
In winter, it’s generally my version of biryani. In summer, probably a barbecue featuring loads of luscious produce. Always a delicious bottle of wine too.
If you could have any chef in the world as your sous for the day, who would it be?
Dan Barber. Although I would be his sous, so I could learn from him!
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