Celebrated as one of the world’s most prestigious champagne houses, G.H. Mumm has long been a favourite among champagne lovers.
As a dedicated champagne drinker, I’ve often thought about making the pilgrimage to the home of champagne in Reims. So, when the invitation to experience a first taste of Maison Mumms’s La Table des Chefs popped into my inbox one rainy Wednesday afternoon, I leapt at the opportunity.
The journey to Maison Mumm from London is swift and painless. I will never tire of congratulating Eurostar on its streamlined check-in process. The ease of flinging my bag onto the conveyer belt with no need to reveal my moisturiser or how chaotic my packing is will always feel like a luxury. From Gare du Nord we made the short journey to Gare de l’Est, a ten-minute wander allowing time for a croissant before taking the train cross country to the heart of Champagne.
The first of its kind in the industry, La Table des Chefs is a new gastronomic experience from G.H Mumm, celebrating young and upcoming chefs from all over the world. Housed in their stunning, recently renovated mansion in Reims, the restaurant takes inspiration from the model of an artist residency. Every three months, a different chef will create a unique menu to be paired with wines chosen by Raimonds Tomsons (voted World’s Best Sommelier in 2023). First to make their mark is Paris’s rising star Mallory Gabsi, the 26-year-old Belgian chef who has already secured a Michelin star.
Expectations were unsurprisingly high for the first evening of service which kicked off with guests enjoying perfectly chilled glasses of 2015-vintage RSRV Blanc de Blancs on the terrace before sitting down to a six-course supper. The hubbub of excitement quietened down briefly upon the arrival of each new course. The dining room filled with a mesmerised hush, interrupted only by the occasional ring of cutlery and murmur of pleasure. Standout courses were Langoustine, a buttery rich langoustine tail accompanied by new season tomatoes, lemongrass and local cheese, and Pea, a velvety smooth pea velouté enriched with lightly smoked haddock, daikon radish and freshly shelled peas. Gabsi’s cooking is equal parts bold and delicate. Garnishes are thoughtful, taking a less-is-more approach that allows the core ingredients to really shine. But where something may appear simple, one taste unravels layers of flavours and textures that feel entirely new.
Each plate arrives with a carefully selected wine plucked from the historic cellars of Maison Mumm. The evening begins with a crisp Riesling and finishes with a G.H Mumm 1988 Vintage Cordon Rouge. If an opportunity arises to take a tour of the cellar, you’d be wise to take it. The cool stone walls have an almost cathedral-like feel to them, revealing champagnes that date back as far as the fifties – a reminder of the great champagne masters who thought to bottle and store this effervescent nectar.
La Table des Chefs can be booked for lunch or dinner with the option to enjoy three or six courses. For a more relaxed experience, a champagne-paired brunch on the terrace is available every Sunday. Gabsi will be cooking until 10 August 10, when he will hand over the reins to Florian Barbarot, followed by Kelly Ramgama on 30 November.
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