Country estates, with expansive manicured grounds and multi-generational activities, have always held a certain allure for Brits – particularly in the summertime. But Cowdray Treehouses are charming in winter, too.
Grand, UK stately homes have long been a seductive summer staycation. Now some of these historic piles are beginning to offer more evergreen attractions, with facilities that lend themselves to the UK’s colder months.
In spring 2023, Cowdray Park in West Sussex launched Treehouse Retreats at Cowdray, a somewhat deceptive title for what are really luxurious, stilt-perched cabins tucked in the estate’s woodlands. Set away from Cowdray House – and each other (a good 20 – 50 metre separates each residence) – these upscale lodges offer a new kind of rural getaway which are ideal year-round, and perfectly charming in the frosty winter months.
The Vibe
New kids on Cowdray’s 16,000-acre block, the Treehouse Retreats are ensconced in a decadent English-countryside idyll. Dominated by the 19th-century manor house, an imposing stone structure featuring 22 rooms and extensive grounds, the estate is a popular south east England getaway destination.
Treehouse guests are received at a dedicated welcome centre near the farmshop, where cars are switched out for cabin keys and a golf cart. After a few minutes’ ride across the polo grounds and up into the generous tree line hugging the main house, the lodges are revealed, emerging from the foliage like something from a Narnia novel.
Cabins boast branch-streaked views across the iconic polo field and sweeping turf runs down towards the ruins of Cowdray House beyond. It’s a serene setting – which belies its position so close to a major A-Road – and is blissfully quiet. In the night, the only sounds likely to wake you are the soft hooting of owls and rustle of nocturnal woodland creatures.
The Rooms
Each of the four treehouses has a slightly different layout, and while some are able to accommodate up to four people, they really seem designed as generous spaces for twosomes.
Blending rustic charm with sleek design, the ambiance in Chukka (our treehouse for the night) is both warm and welcoming, yet sophisticated too. Any temptation to label it ‘cosy’ is quickly suppressed by the lighting which is cool and modern; corded bulbs wrapped in steel hoods dangle either side of the king-size headboard.
Mushroom-hued, faux-fur throws and plump pebble-toned pillows accentuate a sleek, rustic space built from the estate’s timber, and cabins are equipped with a thoroughness designed to encourage repeat visits. Kitchens sport Smeg appliances, a dishwasher, oven and all the other essentials, while thoughtful touches such as Anne Jones’ cookbook, One: Pot, Pan, Planet, a yoga mat and an electric lantern complete the homely feel.
Outside, a wooden balcony replete with soft loungers skirts the property, lit with interwoven fairy lights. In one corner, tucked into a sheltered nook, there’s a huge steel bath – an inviting prospect we indulged in even on a seven degree Celsius November night. The rising steam and solar-powered fairy lights, paired with a glass of wine and the lantern’s glow, made for a truly enchanting experience.
The Food + Drink
As if the welcome hamper wasn’t enough, on-site eating options abound. The Farm Shop Cafe is a light and airy dining space with a comprehensive breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea menu. Portions are as generous as the flavours, which span autumnal squash and sage risotto, venison sausage and mash, and halloumi burgers garnished with chilli jam. Begin at least one of your days with The Big Cowdray Breakfast – its bacon, eggs, sausage, black pudding and trimmings battle for space on the plate. And the cafe is nothing if not inclusive; lucky pooches can dig into dog-friendly ice cream.
For food with a view, head to The Griffin at Cowdray Golf’s Clubhouse. Serving breakfast, brunch and lunch to a backdrop of sweeping greens and fairways, this refined eatery offers a dreamy dining spot on the terrace in the summer, while the Sunday Carvery proves a wonderful winter warmer.
Afternoon Tea is a particularly special treat and available year round, with the Christmas edition hosted within the picturesque walled garden of the main house. Mulled wine jelly, miniature stolen and festive finger sandwiches are just the start of the sophisticated festive fare.
The Little Extras
While treehouse guests don’t have access to Cowdray’s facilities, they can book a space at events happening on the estate. Winter and spring are the perfect time to join the guided foraging walk; led every week by professional forager George, guests are escorted on a three-hour walk across the grounds, during which he divulges the secrets of berries, funghi, flowers and more. Participants learn how to pick and eat stinging nettles and begin to tell the edible mushrooms from the non-edibles. It’s an illuminating experience, and a fantastic way to gain appreciation for the area’s natural bounty.
Our favourite ‘little extra’ however was the welcome hamper waiting for us on arrival. A basket brimming with crisps, truffles, bread, rice, jam, milk and orange juice, it really set the tone for our stay and helped us settle in smoothly. Plus, our hosts went to extra lengths to accommodate our dietary requirements, while still sourcing all the produce from the on-site farmshop.
The To-Do List
If you feel like getting out and about, West Sussex has a lot to offer by way of historical properties and mesmerising landscapes. Plus, National Trust properties abound. Just 15 minutes east of Cowdray lies Petworth House, a 17th-century manor on a 700-acre estate. Its stunning grounds inspired many a J.M.W Turner painting and, inside, it’s an ode to fine art, featuring works by Anthony van Dyck, George Romney and Michael Dahl.
A little to the south lies the medieval town of Arundel, a picturesque burg sporting a towering cathedral, 11th-century castle and charming high street. It’s also a great point from which to explore the South Downs National Park, which stretches across the county and envelopes Cowdray. A plethora of walking routes thread through the park, with a pleasant 19.3km circular hike weaving through the Wetland Nature Reserve and on through the woods and undulating landscapes of the Downs.
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