A runway show is about theatrics. Alongside the venue, music and lighting, beauty plays a key role in writing the fashion collection’s narrative; these are fashion month’s SS24 beauty trends.
Hair and makeup is always carefully considered by designers: alluring collaborations with fashion house creative directors and the industry’s most covetable makeup artists promise captivating collections. From blushed cheeks creating dainty looks to eye-striking drama, here are the beauty highlights from the SS24 shows.
The Ethereal
Prada
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As Vogue Runway’s most streamed show of the recent SS24 season, Prada’s collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simmons was undoubtedly a memorable one. Where the clothes were enveloped in a freedom that opposes rigid tailoring, the makeup looks displayed a similar ease. Prada’s SS24 show notes commented on the collection’s focus on “elevation”, and the makeup presented an almost otherworldly radiance. Led by newly-launched Prada Beauty‘s global creative makeup artist Lynsey Alexander, the runway makeup sourced inspiration from Prada Beauty’s effortless, boundary-less and monochromatic styles and ranges. Skincare serums created glass-like skin and pops of colour appeared on the models’ eyelids to reflect the pink and peach toned decor of the minimalist, expansive venue, the Deposido of the Fondazione Prada. These colours overstepped the natural confines of the eyelids for increasing impact. Rather than a layering of colours, Alexander opted for a sheen overcoat, which left a dewy glisten to mirror the shimmering tulle fabrics of the collection, while strips of organza framed the models’ faces atop sleek hair.
Fendi
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The glistening, wetted hair debuted at Prada formed a trend on the SS24 runway, tying into the repeated use of patent fabrics. Valentino added to the romance with a sleek side parting while Miu Miu opted for a spaghetti string effect. Inspired by the women who walk the streets of Rome everyday, Fendi’s womenswear Creative Director Kim Jones opted for a new experimentation with folds through the origami bags and sweatshirt-esque sleeves tied around the waist and shoulders; these pleats were echoed in the hair with leading hairstylist Guido Palau placing a white strip of fabric to emphasise the strict middle parting of the hairline, leaving a very clean finish to follow the distinct contours of the tailoring.
Artistic Floras
Simone Rocha
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Set in the dress rehearsal space for the English National Ballet, Simone Rocha’s now viral SS24 show, saw the use of real roses held by sheer fabrics that were enhanced by a matching pink, subtle underlining of the eye. Meanwhile, makeup artist Thomas de Kluyver (global make-up artist for Gucci) returned the appliquéd bows from the brand’s AW23 show and cleverly emulated the florals with petalled eyelashes.
Marni
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Marni released a collage dress made from Moschino-esque cut-out prints of roses to stroll through the late Karl Lagerfeld’s house, the epitome of Parisian decadence. The colourful caricature of the makeup mimicked the clothes, as sequinned eyes and lips popped in tune with the vibrant, blossoming gowns.
Nineties Minimalism
Erdem
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Quiet luxury marked a turning point in the fashion industry earlier this year as nineties minimalism returned to govern runway, editorial and street-style looks. This season, with the monochromatic focus of clean cuts and purposeful layering came a similar style in beauty trends too. Thus, the most notable makeup trend of SS24 was the least imposing – a return to similar levels of minimalism. No wonder the ‘clean girl’ makeup aesthetic has amassed over 1.1 billion views on TikTok. Erdem partnered with 111SKIN to bring a spring, rain-kissed skin sheen to the runway. The skincare brand’s Vitamin C serums were used for a brightening effect, as well as products from the Black Diamond range to promote a natural dewiness that complemented the glamorous Chatsworth-house inspired collection.
16Arlington & Molly Goddard
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16Arlington and Molly Goddard also prioritised healthy-looking skin and hair through hydration, creating a languid sensuality and youthful radiance that required little-to-no makeup. Lauren Parsons’ watercolour-like blush on the highest point of the cheekbone for 16Arlington painted a glow that appeared to emanate from within and that reflected the shine of the sheer and sequinned fabrics.
Eye-Catching Drama
Mugler
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Although pallid hues created a mist of pastels on many SS24 runways, dark-toned drama defined lots more. Maison Margiela and Dior’s dark lipstick marked a return to dramatic pouts, so expect stand-out lips to become a big winter trend. Meanwhile, Mugler and Dolce & Gabbana focussed on the eyes. In fact, Mugler – one of SS24’s closing shows – concluded in Paris with amplified drama. In true Mugler fashion, Casey Cadwallader’s show used wind machines against the floating organza in a multidimensional display as garments prowled down the runway. The makeup by Lucy Bridge saw feathered eyelashes that stuck out towards the ears. Dramatic blacks and browns were married with pops of coral blue. The geometric makeup shapes fell in line with the very structured corset lines and sheer materials that characterise the contrarian house.
Dolce & Gabbana
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Dolce & Gabbana’s SS24 collection was simply titled ‘Woman’. Although the Italian luxury brand was founded in 1985, the SS24 show transported the house beyond its own roots to the 1960s. Confident and seductive, the saturated colour palette of the collection took pinstripes and polkadots from gentlemen’s attire and remodelled the fabrics into tailored intimate wear, including corsets, lingerie and garters. To match, models wore a Hollywood eyeliner painted with thick, determined strokes, inspired by celebrated actresses from cinema’s Golden Age. Subtle pops of white touched the corner of the eye to elongate its natural shapes and create a sultry stare.
Nina Ricci
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Nina Ricci by Harris Reed is always going to be a playful affair. With gender fluidity foregrounded in all of Reed’s collections, the SS24 season brought bows, arm-length silk gloves, and a melange of denim with powdery velvets and dramatic sheer leopard-print layers. The makeup, by Charlotte Tilbury, focused on hydrated skin. Led by Sofia Tilbury, the brand’s artistry director and Charlotte Tilbury’s niece, the artists used the new Magic Water Cream and Hollywood Flawless Filter for an iridescent glow. Surrounding the eyes was a smudged shadowing of black and grey for an in-depth cat eye effect – a wink to the 90s when the makeup brand was founded – topped off with hints of blue taken from the brand’s yet-to-be released makeup palette to bring out the denim of the clothes.
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Lead image: Simone Rocha
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