Just a short flight from London, and facing the borders of France, Germany and Austria, Switzerland is packed with Christmas-themed activities from November onwards. Here’s how to spend a festive weekend in Basel.
Centuries-old traditions unique to the city’s 2,000-year history swing back around as soon as the Christmas lights are up, creating a set-worthy snow globe aesthetic that’s charming enough to win over even the grumpiest of grinches.
Aside from a burgeoning restaurant scene and an excellent cast of museums to rival any world-class capital, here’s why Switzerland’s third largest city has that extra special festive touch.
STAY
BASEL MARRIOTT HOTEL
Located a short walk or tram ride away from the old town, Basel Marriott Hotel is a practical but stylish option for bedding down in Basel. It might not look too snazzy from the outside, but with a swish lobby bar and elegant colour palette, it’s easy to feel immediately relaxed on entry. Having just been renovated, the plush furniture is still crisp and like new, while the 280 rooms are pared down and sleek. Functionality comes first: there’s no fussing around with the shower thanks to a simple on-and-off button and an in-built temperature rating that you’d expect to find in a tech CEO’s bathroom.
The location is ideal for exploring other restaurants, bars and bakeries you wouldn’t necessarily run into if you were staying at the main square. Klara, for example, is a popular food hall with DJ nights – a top recommendation if you’re looking for a casual bite in the local area. For something more upmarket, the hotel’s Heritage restaurant is sumptuous and contemporary inside, with a tasty tapas-style menu. For breakfast, this is where you’ll enjoy a sprawling buffet of flaky croissants and savoury delights. There’s no swimming pool but there is a spacious high-tech gym and sauna.
EAT + DRINK
Confisserie Schiesser
Once a meeting point for politicians, Confisserie Schiesser has evolved into a longstanding institution over 150 years. Now in its fourth generation as a family business, the restaurant has been maintained from the inside out, including the very same wood-panelled interior we see today. The menu is proudly Swiss, serving hearty quiches and pickly salads. For dessert, there’s always a sweet treat to look forward to during the festive period. This year, the mandarin sorbet was harvested in Spain especially for this moment, presented in a frozen mandarin shell. Also doubling as a confectionery, the restaurant’s downstairs shop has stacks of silky chocolate treats to take home as a souvenir.
Löwenzorn
Löwenzorn is home to one of the city’s eighteen magical courtyards that have been set up this year in the run up to Christmas, adorned in an après-ski aesthetic of chunky fur blankets, heaters and an intricate display of Christmas decorations. Inside, the comforting scent of stews and sauces wafts through the rustic dining rooms spread across three 16th-century townhouses. The menu is made up of Swiss classics, whether you’re after wienerschnitzel or a bubbling pot of fondue.
Gifthuttli
Tucked away on a pretty side street, Gifthuttli is one of many traditional pub restaurants in the old centre. The space is jovial and intimate and you can always rely on the rosti to be crispy and hearty. In case you’ve had your fair share of schnitzel in the past, the classic cordon bleu is served in 24 variations to mix things up. For drinks, there’s an extensive selection of hazy craft beers and Swiss wines from the likes of Lausanne. If you’re stuck for choice, Gifthuttli’s staff can offer their expertise – or go for the local craft beer, Ueli.
THE TO-DO LIST
Christmas Markets
In the lead up to Christmas, Basel’s chalet-style markets take over Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz in the heart of the old town, selling everything from knitted mittens and hats, to fondue hot dogs and Swiss raclette. After scanning the stalls for artisanal gift ideas, a hot mug of glühwein awaits under a moving display of super-sized baubles, ribbons and acrobatic Santa ornaments. For handmade Christmas decorations, a trip to Johann Wanner Christmas House is a must, a shop that’s dedicated solely to selling classic and niche Christmas decorations year-round.
Christmas Street
In the Swiss summer months, multiple open-air bars pepper the city. But even in the winter, Basel’s al fresco culture lives on. This strip of independent vendors runs the entire length of Rheingasse, a street in the up-and-coming Kleinbasel district. Back-to-back huts serve gourmet street food, raclette, hot aperol and hot toddies, and run parallel with an array of restaurants and bars. Stop at 8 Bar for live jazz.
Basel has its fair share of festive traditions, including the annual return of the Advent Wish Book. Guests and locals are welcome to scribble down their Christmas wishes in a giant notepad, while taking shelter in the red-bricked Rathaus (Town Hall). From 28 November to 23 December 2023, Basel Cathedral’s tower will remain open for visitors to take in the sprawling view of the city’s Christmas lights.
Magical Courtyards
Eighteen new “Magical Courtyards” are scattered around the old town, each uniquely and intricately decorated with twinkly Christmas trees and lights. These quiet pockets act as an escape from the main bustle of the town centre. But they’re not always immediately apparent, so it’s worth keeping an eye out for them before scurrying down narrow lanes to explore them.
Theatre Basel
Get your culture fix at Theatre Basel, a multipurpose cultural space in the heart of the town centre. As the largest venue in Switzerland to combine theatre, opera and ballet, it’s worth a visit even if just to soak up the energy. If you’re sticking around, a programme of free performances and concerts will be running throughout December in the theatre’s foyer from 5PM daily.
Lead photo credit: The Christmas Tree at Rathaus.
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